August 2015 Digest

Tomatoes: Get Your Summer Fix

I love fresh tomatoes, and I eat them rabidly from June through September when they are available from my farmers market, New Morning Farm. The rest of the year, I eat tomatoes rarely--occasionally I'll make something with canned tomatoes. But from October to May I won't buy tomatoes at the grocery store, for the simple reason that they aren't very good.

Tomatoes are a temperamental vegetable (or fruit, if you want to get technical). They bruise easily and they don't store well. Through selective breeding, some growers have developed tomatoes can grow year-round and store and transport well, but in doing so, they have sacrificed what's important about tomatoes: their flavor. Cut open a tomato from the grocery store and you'll find a whitish mealy inside. Taste it, and there will be little tomato flavor. It's no wonder a lot of people claim they don't like tomatoes if this is what they mostly experience.

In contrast, cut into a seasonally ripe summer tomato and it will be vibrant red inside, juicy and flavorful. That's what tomatoes should be like, and I load our menu with them at this time of year.

The simplest way to serve tomatoes is raw in a salad. Inspired by the ingredients of a Manhattan-style chowder, I created this Manhattan "Chowder" Salad with broiled salmon, fresh tomatoes, fried potato cubes--a stand-in for croutons--and other ingredients. No-cook recipes, the kind you might make when it's just blisteringly hot outside, are another good way to make use of raw tomatoes. I loved this recipe I found in a recent issue of Bon Appétit, Flatbread with Tomatoes, Chickpeas and Cucumber-Yogurt Sauce. It's like an uncooked pizza and perfect with a variety of fresh heirloom tomatoes. For more "no cook" ideas, some with tomatoes (some without), check out my 8-2-Eat No Heat Dishes list.

Of course, summer tomatoes are also good cooked. One of the first recipes I learned to make with fresh tomatoes is the Pasta with Quick-Cooked Tomato Sauce from Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins' classic The New Basics Cookbook. I've adapted the recipe a bit to take advantage of another wonderful summer ingredient: fresh basil. This is a good recipe for a weeknight, as its done in under 30 minutes.

Roasted Ratatouille Pasta

When you have more time available, recipes with roasted tomatoes are where it's at. Roasting concentrates tomatoes' sweet and savory flavors. I added roasted tomatoes to Japanese Yaki Udon, a fried noodle dish, to create Roasted Tomato Yaki Udon, a sort of "Japanese spaghetti." Tomatoes, roasted alongside eggplant, bell pepper, zucchini and onion, form the backbone of Roasted Ratatouille Pasta, which also features a garlic and white wine sauce. Substitute olive oil for the butter and you have a delicious summer vegan dish.

Ground Cherries: No Temptation for Young George

We all know the story of George Washington chopping down a cherry tree, but if he'd instead had ground cherries, which grow on vines, he might not have been so tempted. Ground cherries look like small tomatillos, as they are encased in papery skin, although when the skin is removed, they look more like golden grape tomatoes. However, they don't taste at all like tomatoes--they are sweeter and fruitier, more like pineapple. I used them in an Asian Slaw with cabbage, cilantro, peanuts, chicken and a ginger dressing.

Greek Burgers: The All-American Dish Gets a Greek Makeover

Burgers are enjoyed year-round of course, but there's something particularly special about burgers during the summer, especially if you grill them. Although quintessentially American, burgers have demonstrated remarkable flexibility lately, making way for all sorts of interpretations (kimchi, anyone?). I go Greek with this recipe, made with ground lamb instead of beef, topped with tzatziki and nestled into a pita.

Ghibellina: Escape the Hot D.C. Summer with Good Italian Food

If you can't physically get out of D.C. during the hot, humid summer, you can at least get a little mental escape through amazing food. Our dinner at Ghibellina hit the spot with delicious salad, corn ravioli and pizza.

D.C.'s "Hidden" Underground Cocktail Bar: 2 Birds 1 Stone

I knew that 2 Birds 1 Stone was underneath the Doi Moi restaurant, but it took us quite a while to figure out exactly how to get inside. Once there, though, we enjoyed masterful cocktails in a surprisingly bright (for a subterranean space) environment. The Devil's Grin, for example, which I found the recipe for from a Koji Nnamdi Show episode.

Szechuan Peppercorn-Infused Gin and Mint: Silence Is Golden Cocktail

You know how sometimes you find a particular muse for cooking, and it's like the gift that just keeps on giving? My cocktail muse this year is Death & Co., the New York bar I wrote about earlier this year and which put out a book I also really love. This cocktail was inspired by the bar's drink Waterloo Sunset, made with Szechuan peppercorn-infused gin, ginger liqueur, Dolin blanc and mint. I call it "Silence Is Golden." Read the post to find out why (hint: it's a bit of music chart fun).


Food Recipes

Flatbread with Tomatoes, Chickpeas and Cucumber-Yogurt Sauce - a no-cook recipe from Bon Appétit that layers seasoned sliced tomatoes atop mashed chickpeas and yogurt-cucumber sauce on top of flatbreads.

Manhattan "Chowder" Salad - A salad of broil salmon, fresh tomatoes, fried potato "croutons" and other ingredients inspired by Manhattan-style chowder.

Pasta with Quick-Cooked Tomato Sauce - A simple dish of fettuccine, cooked summer tomatoes and basil, adapted from a recipe from The New Basics Cookbook.

Roasted Ratatouille Pasta - Ratatouille vegetables are roasted and combined with a garlic-white wine sauce over pasta.

Roasted Tomato Yaki Udon - A "Japanese spaghetti" of fried udon noodles with mushrooms and roasted tomatoes.

Asian Slaw with Ground Cherries and Chicken - My first recipe with ground cherries, which look like golden grade tomatoes and taste bit like pineapple, is an Asian-style slaw with cabbage, chicken and a ginger dressing.

Greek Burgers - Ground lamb, Tzatziki and pitas put a Greek twist on the American classic.


Cocktail Recipes

Silence is Golden - Szechuan peppercorn-infused gin, ginger liqueur, Dolin blanc and mint in a cocktail inspired by a Death & Co. drink.

Devil's Grin - From 2 Birds 1 Stone bartender Adam Bernbach, this is a white whiskey drink with Campari, amaretto and lime.



8-2-Eat

No Heat Dishes

Fresh Summer Tomato Recipes


Restaurants/Bars

Ghibellina (Italian, Washington, D.C.)

2 Birds / 1 Stone (Cocktail Bar, Washington, D.C.)

Cocktail : Silence Is Golden

This drink is inspired by the Death & Co. drink Waterloo Sunset by Joaquín Simó, named for a 1967 hit by the Kinks. The star of the drink is gin infused with the tongue-numbing flavor of Szechuan peppercorns, a Chinese ingredient best known for its role in Kung Pao Chicken. Simó combined it with additional non-infused gin, mint muddled in simple syrup, Dolin blanc, watermelon juice and lime and served it on the rocks with a mint sprig. It sounds like a delicious combination, but unfortunately, I had no watermelon on hand when I was looking for something tasty to make recently.

So, I refashioned the drink without the watermelon, turning it into an "up" style drink with ginger liqueur instead of cane syrup. Ginger, after all, is common to Chinese cuisine, so I thought it would be a good partner with the Szechuan peppercorn-infused gin, and ginger and mint play nicely together too. A couple dashes of grapefruit bitters add just a touch an extra touch of citrusy bitterness, compensating for the lack of lime juice which is only partially made up for by the lime twist garnish.

As for the title, "Silence Is Golden" by The Tremeloes was the #1 hit in Britain the week that "Waterloo Sunset" peaked at #2.

Silence Is Golden
Inspired by Waterloo Sunset by Joaquín Simó, Death & Co.

7 mint leaves
1/2 oz. Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur
2 oz. Szechuan Peppercorn-infused Beefeater gin (*see below)
1/2 oz. Dolin blanc vermouth
2 dashes grapefruit bitters
Lime twist garnish

1. Add the mint leaves and ginger liqueur to a cocktail shaker and muddle.

2. Add the gin, vermouth and grapefruit bitters. Fill the shaker with ice and shake until very cold. Strain into a chilled coupe (double-strain with a fine-mesh sieve if little mint particles bug you). Rub the lime twist around the edge of the glass, give it a squeeze over the drink with the peel-side down, twist and drop into the drink.

*To infuse the gin: combine 1 tbsp. Szechuan peppercorns with 4 oz. of gin (enough to make two drinks) in a small bowl (a 1-cup glass measuring cup works well). Allow to sit for 35 minutes then strain the gin with a fine-mesh sieve.

Related

Death & Co. (The Book)

Death & Co. (The Bar)

Winter/Holiday Drinks Week

It's the time of year to be festive, to welcome your friends, coworkers and family, preferably with drink in hand. While it's sadly true that alcohol can't really warm your body (unless perhaps you're drinker a winter warmer), it can warm your spirits, which is often just as useful when it's cold outside.

All this week I'll be sharing recipes for drinks perfect the cold winter months and the holidays. There will be a warm winter drink (today's Spicy Aztec Hot Chocolate with Mezcal), muddled cocktails, a look at the new cocktail book, Death & Co and an assortment of other drinks that just fit this time of year, like the Vanilla Margarita. Expect lots of ginger, spice and whiskey, definitely lots of whiskey (including variations on the Manhattan, Family Therapy and Paper Plane). Please check back everyday, and I promise you'll find something new.

To get you in the mood for this week's new recipes, here are some great winter cocktails I've previously featured:

Spanish Coffee: I ran this drink in the summer, even though it's a warm drink, because it was part of my coverage of Portland bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler's book, The Bar Book.

Apple Brandy Cocktails: three drinks, including the Norwegian Wood with aquavit, the Widow's Kiss with bitter herbal liqueurs and the warm honey-mustard Scotchem.

The Rye in January: Rye whiskey, ginger-cinnamon flavor of Becherovka liqueur, Cynar, absinthe and grapefruit.

Honey-Nut Old Fashioned: peanut-infused rye whiskey, honey syrup, Angostura bitters.

A Walk in The Woods: A woodsy blend of smoked whiskey, walnut liqueur, homemade rosemary-juniper syrup and grapefruit juice.

A Rye Smile: A bitter-sweet concoction of rye whiskey, Cynar, homemade rosemary-brown sugar syrup and grapefruit.

The Lincoln: Honoring the 14th president (and the Steven Spielberg film) with smoked whiskey, maple and Peychaud's Bitters.

Dallas Drinks: The Julie: bourbon, ginger liqueur, sweet vermouth, bacon-peppercorn bitters.

Dallas Drinks: The Jock: bourbon, Benedictine liqueur, sweet vermouth, smoky Islay Scotch, Angostura bitters.

Related Stories

Spicy Aztec Hot Chocolate with Mezcal

Death & Co: Modern Classic Cocktails (book and recipes)

A Tale of Two Manhattans

Testing the Arctic Chill Muddler (with Peary Christmas and Winter Mojito cocktails)

Family Therapy cocktail

Paper Plane cocktail

Vanilla Margarita

Dallas Drinks: The Julie

Dallas Drinks is a co-creation with Dallas Decoder, honoring the characters of the television show Dallas--both the classic series and the newer TNT Dallas, which continues the Ewing family saga. See all of the Dallas Drinks here.

Julie Grey was J.R.'s first secretary and although she lasted only 5 episodes, she was one of classic Dallas's most memorable women. Julie was a tragic character: initially loyal to J.R. with whom she was having an affair, Julie later betrayed J.R. to Cliff, an action that ultimately let to her demise when information she had safeguarded became known to members of the oil cartel.

Julie's drink recognizes her ties to several of the show's main men: bourbon for J.R., ginger liqueur for Cliff (which also nods to actress Tina Louise's best-known role as ginger on Gilligan's Island), and sweet vermouth ties her to Jock, with whom she had a friendship. The Bitter Tears are a reminder of Julie's tragic end.

Dallas Drinks: The Julie

1 1/2 oz. bourbon
1 oz. ginger liqueur
1/2 oz. sweet vermouth
2 dashes Bitter Tears bacon-peppercorn bitters
Orange peel

Combine bourbon, ginger liqueur, sweet vermouth and bitters in a cocktail mixing glass. Add ice and stir until chilled. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Squeeze the orange peel over the drink, then drop it into the glass.

Restaurant: Kapnos (Washington, D.C.)

I love Greek cuisine, and there isn't a lot of it to be found in D.C. I was saddened by the loss of Yanni's Greek Taverna in Cleveland Park a few years ago, a place that Chris and I frequented for lunch on weekends.

So I was pleased with last year's opening of Kapnos, the latest in the expanding local portfolio from chef Mike Isabella. While Isabella may be best-known outside of D.C. for his appearances on Top Chef, around here he's the guy behind the wonderful downtown Italian restaurant Graffiato, which wows us each summer with sweet corn agnolotti and year-round with pepperoni sauce (itself a dish made famous on Top Chef), among other delights.

With Kapnos, Isabella steers close to the cuisine he first became known for in D.C. while working as executive chef at Zaytinya, the José Andrés outpost serving small-plate Mediterranean fare. While some dishes, like the wonderful spreads, may bring Zaytinya to mind, Kapnos' Greek-inspired fare charts its own creative course.

Kapnos, or closely καπνό, means "smoke" in Greek, and many dishes incorporate smoke or char, bringing to mind the smoke-kissed cooking at Del Campo. Take the dolmades, for example. The favorite treat of grape leaves stuffed with grains and nuts is nicely done with traditional flavors but comes with a surprising side of smoked grapes.

Other surprising flavors appear during our dinner, even in our cocktails. The Blame It on The Rain (I suppose named after Milli Vanilli's biggest hit) melds vodka, ginger liqueur, lemon, grilled fresno chili pepper and burnt cinnamon--making the drink "spicy" in three different, complementary ways. We preferred it to the Mustachio, a mix of pisco porton, maraschino liqueur, ginger beer an bitters that isn't bad but wasn't as memorable as the super-chilled metal cup it was served in.

One of the many spreads with freshly grilled flatbread is a great way to start. If you order the smoked eggplant spread expecting to receive something akin to gaga ghanoush, you'll be surprised, as the Melitzanosalata is a totally different game, featuring roasted peppers, walnuts and feta. The spread is really good, but the flatbread is wonderful: nicely charred on the edges, warm and chewy. We ordered an extra piece just to have some to wipe up the sauces from our plates. Shortly after the spread and dolmades arrived, we received a delicious smoked beet salad with yogurt and citrus, a nice balance of earthy, sour and smoky flavors.

Like a lot of restaurants serving a menu of mostly small plates, the food arrives fast-and-furious, and Kapnos did a good job of pairing what we ordered into courses of sorts. It's definitely a busy place, but despite that, I felt our server did a good job of making sure our needs were seen to.

The second half of our dinner kicked off with Greek fries, made with ground chickpeas instead of potatoes. The soft fried discs arrive with a sprinkle of mizithra cheese. A plate of loukaniko sausage served with oranges, white bean puree and shaved radishes disappeared so fast I can't quite recall what the sausage was like, but we must have liked it!

I do, however, fondly remember my favorite dish of the evening. Kapama is the Saturday special: a hearty, homey pasta dish of orzo with spicy tomato sauce upon which rests tender braised lamb shank. Chris remarked that the spices in the dish tasted like Christmas, and I can't disagree that its blend, which included clove, puts you in the mood for the holidays, even in the late summer.

Lots of peppercorn--in an assortment of colors--showed up in our dinner: our fries were dusted with ground black peppercorn, our almond and apricot baklava's accompanying ice cream was made with pink peppercorn and, in a cool twist, our beet salad came with green peppercorn meringues, wafery, delicate pieces that melted in your mouth. As I'm a major fan of all things peppercorn, I welcome this kitchen's interest in it.

The Kapnos interior is dark, but by no means cavernous. I really like the fresh design by D.C.-area firm Streetsense, a subdued mix of olive walls, warm wood floors and elegant light fixtures. We were seated close to a large window that looks into the kitchen, which provided me lots of entertainment during the evening.

Kapnos interior (photo by Greg Powers).

Kapnos is the third restaurant in Mike Isabella's burgeoning D.C. restaurant collective, and the most welcome since his original, Graffiato, charmed the city (me included) when it opened 3 years ago. In addition to drawing from similar influences as Isabella's former haunt Zaytinya, Kapnos' executive chef, George Pagonis, is an alum of Graffiato, as well as Zaytinya where he worked under Isabella. Pagonis is definitely somebody worth knowing: he'll be competing in this fall's season of Top Chef (the season is already taped, so don't worry about the chef being absent from the kitchen). It's worth noting that Kapnos is attached to G by Mike Isabella, a sandwich shop by day and tasting-menu restaurant by night. A sister restaurant, Kapnos Taverna, is due to open this fall in Northern Virginia. Isabella is clearly a guy with a lot of ambition. Thankfully, it's accompanied by continued great execution.

Kapnos, 2201 14th Street NW (at W Street NW), Washington, D.C. (U Street Corridor/Shaw). (202) 234-5000. Reservations: Open Table.

Restaurant: Thally (Washington, D.C.)

Have you noticed how restaurants can serve similar food, yet have markedly different personalities? I was struck particularly between the contrast in vibe between Clyde Common in Portland, Oregon and Thally in Washington, D.C. Clyde Common and Thally have similar menus: a refined list of fewer than 10 starters and entrees consisting of meat, seafood and fresh, seasonal vegetables.

Yet the vibe in the restaurants couldn't be more different. Clyde Common assaults you with its swagger of loud music and hipster-ish hostess and servers. It's that cool guy who's nice but has a bit of edge. He commands attention when he enters the room. Thally, in contrast, plays it cool. You might not notice him at first, but you'll be better off for getting to know him, for he's every bit as talented as his flashy rock-star colleague.

Thally is an attractive restaurant, a narrow space of exposed brick adorned with a cool collection of artwork. Thally's laid-back atmosphere, friendly service and thoughtfully composed dishes made for just the right evening when we wandered into the casual Shaw restaurant recently. In an age where so many restaurants feel the need to put on a show, it's nice that Thally lets its delicious food speak for itself.

And speak well it does, especially once it's in front of you. Thally's menu is refreshingly free of over-used adjectives like "heritage," "heirloom" and "farm-raised," employing instead descriptors like "grilled" and "roast" and listing the ingredients by name but without a treatise on their provenance. This makes the food sound pretty simple, but that's a deception, of sorts, as the thoughtfulness of chef Ron Tanaka's cooking becomes apparent once the food arrives at the table.

Starters: whiskey roast onion (top), bibb lettuce with red-wine-poached pears and bur rata (bottom).

Take our starters: a bibb lettuce salad and a roasted onion. Sounds simple enough, yet both dishes had an expected degree of complexity. While eating the salad, for example, I loved the flavorful purple slices I thought were beets until Chris reminded me they were in fact wine-poached pears, which paired ("peared?") nicely with the lettuce--as fresh and flavorful as any lettuce I've had in a restaurant--and creamy burrata. A roasted onion may not seem like a typical candidate for a signature starter, but Thally's version, roasted with whiskey and augmented with bacon, bread crumbs and gruyere, is a fantastic way to start dinner on a homey, savory note.

Entrees: grilled, marinated flank steak (top); grilled pork tenderloin (bottom)

Tanaka's skill for pairing good flavors extended to our entrees as well. I particularly liked my grilled pork tenderloin, served with a bourbon sauce and candied pecans that were an excellent match for the flavorful, tender mustard-brined pork. The grilled flank steak was also quite delicious, although it was a bit tough; serving it sliced or providing a steak knife would have been a nice touch. We cleared our plates pretty quickly, leaving room for summery shortcake with ice cream and two types of cherries.

Cocktail: Ms. Rosemary Bulleit

For drinks, Thally has a nice selection of craft cocktails. The Far East, a lemonade spiked with gin infused with peppercorn and lemongrass was refreshing although maybe a bit sweeter than we like.  I preferred the Ms. Rosemary Bulleit, a great example of a summer whiskey cocktail sweetened with white vermouth, maraschino liqueur and house-made ginger soda.

Casual-upscale restaurants serving fresh, seasonable food are a dime a dozen these days, although you'll generally shell out more than a few dimes for the food. On that note, I found Thally's prices to be reasonable, another good reason to visit in addition to the tasty food and very good service, which I found to be both friendly and knowledgeable. All-in-all, Thally provided us an enjoyable, relaxing Saturday night dinner. It may not have rock-star swagger, but it delivered plenty of hits.

Thally, 1316 9th Street NW (between N and O Streets), Washington, D.C. (Shaw, near the Convention Center). (202) 733-3849. Reservations: Open Table. 

Ginger Mojito

Ginger is one of my favorite flavors to work into cocktails. The easiest way to do so is with a ginger-flavored drink, such as ginger beer (Moscow Moose, Silver Linings Playbook) or ginger liqueur, which is featured in today's Ginger's Lazy Summer Afternoon.

For other drinks, you might instead want a ginger syrup. In the past when I've made ginger syrup, I've used a slow infusion method, basically making simple syrup on the stove with pieces of fresh ginger that "steep" in the hot syrup. With a little peppercorn, this is the syrup in the Kickin' Cucumber Collins, for example.

Cut the fresh ginger into chunks (you don't have to peel it) and pulverize it in a blender with sugar and boiling hot water.

Recently, I discovered another technique that's both faster and, I think, more effective. In a post for Hot Toddies, Bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler writes about what he calls the "San Francisco Ginger Syrup," so-named for its use by Bay Area bartenders Jon Santer and Thad Vogler. The technique is quite simple. Rather than steeping fresh ginger, this recipe instead pulverizes it in a blender with boiling hot water, extracting the juice while quickly combining it with sugar. The resulting mixture is then strained and, although requires chilling, comes together much faster than the stove-top infusion method. Morgenthaler included the ginger syrup recipe in his new book, The Bar Book.

Note to kitchen equipment manufacturers: somebody please develop a fine-mesh sieve without a handle. It would be so useful for straining tasks that take a little time. You can see here how I used ginger beer to prop up my sieve while straining the ginger.

When I make syrups like this, I store them in plastic squeeze bottles, which makes measurement of small quantities easy. I also put a piece of masking tape on the bottle and write on it what's inside and when it was made.

This syrup was perfect for making a Ginger Mojito, a slightly more bracing take on the classic summer refreshment. I also got to use some fresh spearmint from my herb garden, which is doing great these days (I'll update you on it soon).

Finished ginger syrup

Ginger Mojito

8-12 spearmint leaves
1 oz. ginger syrup (see recipe below)
Juice from 1/2 lime
2 oz. light rum
Club soda

Add the mint leaves, ginger syrup and lime juice to a highball glass. Gently muddle the mixture. Fill the glass with ice, add the rum and stir to combine. Top with club soda and serve.

Ginger Syrup
Adapted from a recipe by Jeffrey Morgenthaler

6 oz. fresh ginger, washed, no need to peel, although I recommend removing any questionable-looking bits, coarsely chopped into pieces about the size of the end of your pinkie finger
6 oz. sugar
6 oz. boiling water
1 tbsp. vodka (optional)

Combine ginger and sugar in a blender. Pour the boiling water over the top and turn the blender on high. Blend until smooth. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer then transfer to a sealed container to store in the refrigerator. (Note: to prolong the syrup, I like to add a tablespoon of vodka to keep it from spoiling as fast.)

Summer Cocktails Week 2014

Summer officially begins this week, making it the perfect time for another focus week on cocktails.

This year's main cocktail muse is Jeffrey Morgenthaler, who early this month published his first book, The Bar Book, which focuses on the techniques of making cocktails while also sharing recipes and other bits of cocktail lore. I reviewed his book today and also included recipes for his Sidecar and Spanish Coffee.

Tomorrow, I'm sharing cocktails with ginger flavors, including a couple of drinks made with ginger syrup using Morgenthaler's great technique (Penicillin, Ginger Mojito and Ginger's Lazy Summer Afternoon). Wednesday, I mix a drink that combines smoky Islay Scotch with the summery Italian Aperol (June Sunrise). Thursday is gin day, pitting American and British gins in a taste-test to find the best Gin & Tonic. I'll also share a Berlioni made with barrel-aged gin. And Friday I'll share a couple of tiki cocktails, tropical fruit-forward, rum-based drinks (Mai Colada and Beachcomber).

In addition to this week's new drinks, here are some more ideas for summer cocktails:

• Put a new spin on the classic margarita with apple and ginger in the Apple Margarita. Tequila lovers may also like the classic Improved Tequila Cocktail made with Bittermens Xocolatl Mole bitters.
• If mezcal is more your thing, try the Smoky Paloma made with peppercorn-bacon bitters. The Nicolas from our line of Dallas Drinks is another sophisticated mezcal drink made also with amontillado sherry.
• Gin & Tonic is my favorite drink, and I've done some variations of other drinks inspired by it, like this G&T Martini.
• The British classic Pimm's Cup is also welcome in the summer. For a unique twist, try the Pimm's Cup imposter, the American Hustle, inspired by the recent film.
• Speaking of the movies, several of this year's Oscar Cocktails would be great for summertime, like the Captain Phillips, an African riff on the Screwdriver, the Nebraska, a minty beer cocktail, and the Her, a colorful gin drink made with summery Aperol. Don't forget the Oscar bonus cocktail for Blue Jasmine with tea-infused vodka and blue curaçao. 
• If classic cocktails are your thing, I recommend The Last Word, a tart mix of gin, green chartreuse, maraschino liqueur and lime.
• Then there's the Mint Julep, a classic summer staple.
• Here's last year's list of summer cocktail suggestions.

Review: Jaleo Still Strong After 20 Years

When the Washington Post's Phyllis Richman first reviewed Jaleo soon after it opened in 1993, there was no mention of its location in Penn Quarter (it was called "old downtown" back then), nor was there mention of its not-yet-famous chef-owner José Andrés. My, how the times have changed.

But what hasn't changed for Jaleo, which celebrated its 20th anniversary earlier this year, are the raves about its food. It's as vibrant and creative today as it's always been.

Sure, the prices have gone up--Richman noted several times that one of Jaleo's best selling points was its low price--but I would argue Jaleo still delivers good value. People may scoff at the $225 per person Andrés is charging a couple blocks away at Minibar, but of the 10 or so D.C.-area restaurants the Post has rated with 3.5 or 4 stars, Jaleo is the gentlest on your pocketbook. A couple could reasonably enjoy a dinner of six shared tapas and two glasses of wine for $75. Of course, a few rounds of sangria, a paella and some dessert will set you back more, but at least Jaleo offers the chance for young, less well-heeled Washingtonians to dine in style while eating well. This is how you train people to love eating at restaurants.

Our recent dinner at Jaleo was as delightful as any we've had in the 10-plus years since I started eating there. The interior got a needed update last year, turning the corner restaurant with its large glass windows into a colorful, whimsical space in keeping with its Spanish origins. The menu also got a facelift. I remember it used to feature cold tapas, hot tapas, seasonal tapas and entrees. Now small plates are divided by style: appetizers, soups and salads, vegetables, fritters, seafood and meat. There's also the aforementioned paella and a tasting menu option.

Vegetal Gin & Tonic

The food side of the menu isn't the only thing that's a little different: Jaleo also expanded its cocktail offering last year, notably by adding gin & tonic, a nod to the current Spanish "gin tonic" craze. While you may think of Jaleo for its sangria, I'm more excited about its G&Ts: six choices made with varying tonic waters, aromatic herbs and other ingredients. On a previous visit, I enjoyed the José's Choice, which is a pretty traditional interpretation with lemon, lime and juniper. More recently, Chris and I sampled some of the more unusual choices like the Barrel Aged made with pickled ginger, allspice, orange and lemon. It was good, but I preferred the ultra refreshing taste of the Vegetal with fennel, radish, cubeb (a spice berry that resembles a peppercorn), kumquat and Fentiman's tonic water. Chris enjoyed the London Dry with grapefruit, mint, lemon and white pepper, although we were surprised to find it's mixed with club soda instead of tonic water.

Salad of mixed greens with idiazábal cheese, anchovies and garlic anchovy dressing

While I'm sure Jaleo's paella is delicious, I, like most people, come for the tapas. We ordered a mix of new dishes and old favorites across most of the different categories. Dinner started on a very strong note: a salad of mixed greens with idiazábal cheese (like pecorino), spanish anchovies and garlic anchovy dressing. Anyone still harboring an aversion to anchovies needs to get over it. They were delicious in this dish, which got additional briny flavor from capers and was rounded out with pine nuts. Along with that we enjoyed an old favorite: beets with grapefruit, valdeón (Spanish blue) cheese and pistachios.

Sautéed seasonal mushrooms with cheesy potato purée

The next highlight was the sautéed seasonal mushrooms (looked like cremini and chanterelle) with a cheesy potato purée, garlic and herbs. Arriving at about the same time was the warm Brussels sprouts salad with apricots, apple and serrano ham, which was the evening's only disappointing dish. Restaurants are doing marvelous roasted sprouts these days, so I was expecting something more like that than the "warm" sprouts (which really weren't that warm). I also thought the ham was too tough. Nonetheless, this one mediocre dish was offset by the always fabulous Dátiles Con Tocino Como Hace Todo El Mundo, which translates roughly to "dates with bacon how everyone does it." The sweet and smoky fritters may be done by everyone, but I seriously doubt they all do it this good (we've been known to order two plates of this, we like it so much).

Another old favorite then arrived: the classic Spanish tapa of sautéed shrimp with garlic. This is one I remember eating on the street in Madrid back in 1998 (I also remember lots of little pieces of paper and toothpicks everywhere; "tapas detritus" I suppose). It was particularly spicy this time, which I liked. And that garlicky oil they cook the shrimp in is always really great when sopped up with Jaleo's crusty bread. Interesting, this was one of the few dishes Richman didn't enjoy back in the 1993, describing the shrimp as "tasteless" and its "onion-strewn" garlic butter as "watery." Obviously it's been improved since then.

Pork and foie gras canelones

The best was yet to come, however. The pork and foie gras canelones (like the Italian cannelloni) with béchamel sauce were a revelation. If you love macaroni & cheese as much as I do, consider this like a luxe version of that staple with shredded pork. That the cheese around the edge of the plate was a bit crispy just made me love this all the more. I would definitely eat this again and it's probably a good thing that it doesn't come as an entree portion.

Like most of the small-plates restaurants Jaleo inspired, dishes come out as they are ready, although I've noticed the kitchen does try to pace things a bit by bringing the salads and cold dishes first before the hot and meat dishes. At no point did we feel like we had too much on our table. Servers did a got job removing the things we'd finished and never a moment too soon.

That Penn Quarter is now a major foodie neighborhood and José Andrés is one of our nation's best known chefs are part of a greater story about the transformation of DC's restaurant scene from grumbles about expense count lunches to truly a world-class destination of diverse and exciting culinary experiences. Jaleo is one of that story's tastiest and most influential chapters.

Jaleo, 480 7th Street NW (at E Street), Washington, D.C. (Penn Quarter). (202) 628-7949. Reservations: Open Table.

Summer Cocktails Week

Summer is here (well, technically just about), the time of year when refreshing cocktails taste best to cool down on a hot day and share with friends.

All this week my blog will have a cocktail focus. Tomorrow, I'll review the book Craft Cocktails at Home and share some drinks from and inspired by Kevin Liu's informative book. I'll share some of my favorite cocktail resources. I even have a cocktail-inspired dessert. Plus, there will be lots of recipes throughout the week for classic, contemporary and original drinks.

In addition to the new content starting tomorrow, here are 25 previously featured drinks to get you started featuring some of my favorite summer cocktail ingredients:

Gin. No drink says "summer" to me more than a Gin & Tonic (or the upscale Spanish version, Gin Tonic). Other summery gin drinks include The Cloister, which includes yellow chartreuse and citrus flavors; self-explanatory Boozy Mint Lemonade; Happy Endings inspired the Whore's Bath (my most popular drink); and the refreshing Spring Breeze with cucumber, mint and lemon. For D.C. locals, you shouldn't let summer go by without having a Rickey, the city's official cocktail. The Nice Rickey by former Washington Post spirits reporter Jason Wilson is one of my favorites. For something spicy, I love the ginger-peppercorn kick of Kickin' Cucumber Collins.

Aperol. Of the many Italian aperitifs that have been popular lately, Aperol is my favorite. It's most classic cocktail is the Spritz, made with prosecco and orange juice. For a summer barbecue, I recommend the smoky-spicy Light My Fire made with mezcal and jalapeño. For something evocative of a summer sunset, try the August Sunset made with gin, St. Germain and lemon. Or mix it with gin, dry vermouth and lemon in Everybody Loves a Gin Blossom.

Tequila and mezcal. Is there a spirit more closely associated (sadly, sometimes badly) with summer parties? Tequila and its smoky cousin mezcal shine during the warm season. Go simple and crowd-pleasing with a Classic Margarita (fresh ingredients really elevate a margarita above your low-brow cantina version). For an interesting twist, try a Ginger Margarita. For a marg with some kick, I suggest the Margarita on Fire with mezcal and habanero shrub. Tequila isn't just for margaritas either, and makes an interesting partner to scotch in the Tartan Mula and absinthe and ginger beer in The Silver Linings Playbook. For mezcal lovers, I recommend two of my Dallas Drinks: the tart and refreshing Elena and the spicy bourbon drink, The John Ross. There's also the Smoky Ginger Cocktail with ginger beer.

Mint. My favorite herb is perfect for cocktails with a cool, refreshing quality. Fresh berries flavor Blackberry Mint Fizz, while ginger and jalapeño give Spicy Ginger-Mint Fizz its kick. A classic Mint Julep is a great choices, or my fiery irreverent version inspired by the recent hit film, the Django Unchained. Or for something all-around refreshing, try the Spring in a Glass (made with gin and fennel liqueur).

Need more suggestions? Check out the cocktail index (which I just updated) with links to all my cocktail recipes organized by spirits, flavors and other themes.

Oscar Cocktails: Just the Recipes

In one place for easy referencing, here are just the recipes for all 10 Oscar Cocktails. 

Oscar Cocktails: The Amour

1 oz. gin
1/2 oz. pear liqueur
1/2 oz. lemon juice
2 oz. champagne (or other sparkling wine)
Lemon twist (optional garnish)

Combine gin, pear liqueur and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake until cold. Strain into champagne flute. Top with champagne and garnish with lemon twist.

Oscar Cocktails: The Argo

1 1/2 oz. Canadian whisky
1/2 oz. sweet vermouth
1 oz. orange juice
3/4 oz. cardamom syrup (see recipe)
Orange peel

Combine whiskey, sweet vermouth, orange juice and cardamom syrup in a shaker with ice. Shake until very cold and strain into rocks glass with ice. Garnish with orange peel.

Oscar Cocktails: The Beasts of the Southern Wild

1 ½ oz. rye whiskey
½ oz. walnut liqueur
1 oz. roasted corn syrup (see recipe)
1 oz. milk
Milk foam (see recipe, may substitute whipped cream)
Ground nutmeg (garnish)

Combine whiskey, walnut liqueur, roasted corn syrup and milk in shaker with ice. Shake until cold and strain into a chilled coupe. Top with a generous portion of milk foam and a sprinkle of nutmeg.

Oscar Cocktails: The Django Unchained

8 mint leaves
1 oz. peppercorn syrup (see recipe)
2 oz. bourbon
2 oz. club soda
Mint sprig (optional garnish)

Add mint leaves and peppercorn syrup to highball glass and muddle. Fill glass with ice then add bourbon and club soda. Stir to mix with muddled syrup. Garnish with mint sprig.

Oscar Cocktails: The Les Misérables

2 oz. London dry gin (Plymouth)
1/2 oz. Lillet Blanc
1/2 oz. St. Germain liqueur
1/2 oz. ginger liqueur (Domaine de Canton)
Lemon twist

Combine liquid ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake until cold and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with lemon twist.

Oscar Cocktails: The Life of Pi

Fine sea salt or kosher salt
1.5 oz. light rum
.64 oz. blue curaçao
.5 oz. simple syrup
.5 oz. lime juice (plus more for the glass rim)
Orange twist

Wet the rim of a chilled coupe with lime juice. Spread salt on a plate and twist the glass rim-down in the salt to coat the rim. Combine rum, blue curaçao and lime juice in shaker with ice. Shake until cold. Strain into salt-rimmed coupe. Garnish with orange twist.

Oscar Cocktails: The Lincoln

2 oz. smoked whiskey (Corsair)
1/2 oz. maple syrup
6 dashes Peychaud's bitters

Combine ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake until cold and strain into chilled coupe.

Oscar Cocktails: The Silver Linings Playbook

1 1/2 oz. silver tequila (Sauza Silver)
1/2 oz. absinthe (Absente)
1 oz. fresh lime juice
2 dashes angostura bitters
2 oz. ginger beer (Gosling's)
Lime wheel (garnish)

Combine tequila, absinthe, lime juice and bitters in a shaker with ice. Shake until very cold. Strain into a rocks glass with ice. Add ginger beer and stir. Garnish with lime wheel.

Oscar Cocktails: The Zero Dark Thirty

1/2 oz. coffee liqueur (such as Kahlúa)
3/4 oz. Green Chartreuse
1/2 oz. vodka

In a tall shot glass, carefully layer the drink by slowly pour the liquors over the back handle of a spoon touching the inside of the glass just above the previous layer: first the coffee liqueur, then the Chartreuse and finally the vodka.

Oscar Cocktails Bonus: The Skyfall

2 oz. single malt scotch
1/2 oz. Lillet Blanc
1/2 oz. Domaine de Canton ginger liqueur
Lemon twist

Combine scotch, Lillet and ginger liqueur in a shaker with ice. Shake until very cold. Strain into a martini glass and garnish with a lemon twist.


Which Oscar Cocktail do you think sounds most appealing? Vote on Facebook.