Vaguely Southeast Asian Turkey-Noodle Soup

It's day 2 of Thanksgiving leftovers, and already I'm getting a little tired of just reheating the dishes I served on Thursday. Time for something else! Early in the day, I thought about making a simple turkey-noodle soup. I'd already thrown out the carcass, so there wasn't going to be a "make your own stock" situation at my house (I know I should save it and use it, but the last few years, it just sits in the freezer).

I thought I'd making something simple with cooked turkey, onion, celery, carrot, egg noodles and turkey broth. But then it dawned on me that with some Southeast Asian flavors, I could probably make something just as satisfying and a lot more interesting. In went the ginger, garlic, star anise, fish sauce, soy sauce, lime juice and cilantro. The results were a big hit around the table. Home run!

Vaguely Southeast Asian Turkey-Noodle Soup

6 oz. rice sticks (rice noodles, similar in size to linguine) broken in half
4-6 cups boiling water
2 tbsp. canola or vegetable oil
1 sweet onion, cut into slivers
2 stalks of celery, cut into slivers
1 carrot, peeled and cut into thin julienne (like matchsticks--I recommend using a julienne peeler)
3-4 garlic cloves, minced
3 inches of ginger root, peeled and finely grated
6-8 scallions, sliced into small pieces, white and green parts separated
2 quarts (8 cups) low-sodium turkey broth
3 star anise pods
1 tbsp. fish sauce
2 tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce or tamari
Freshly ground white pepper, to taste
2 cups cooked turkey cut into 1/2 inch or smaller pieces
Juice from 1 lime
1/2 cup cilantro leaves

1. Place the rice sticks in a bowl and add boiling water until the noodles are submerged. Allow to sit for 5 minutes, then drain the noodles.

2. Heat oil in a Dutch oven or large soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion and celery, and sauté until softened, about 8-10 minutes. Add the carrot, garlic, ginger and white scallion parts, and cook another minute until fragrant.

3. Increase heat to medium-high and add turkey broth, star anise, fish sauce, soy sauce and white pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to simmer. Add the turkey and simmer over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat, remove the star anise pods, stir in the lime juice and adjust seasoning to taste. Stir in the cooked noodles.

4. Serve in bowls garnished with a good pinch of cilantro leaves and green scallion pieces.

Recipe for a Thanksgiving Rebel: Kung Pao-Style Roast Chicken, Gravy and Fried Rice

Turkey is the traditional centerpiece of Thanksgiving. And while many people--including me--love a good roast turkey, there are those folks who don't like turkey. For whatever reason, it's just not their thing. They may feel guilted into making turkey anyway, because of the holiday. To those folks I say: be a rebel. Make something else! What's important on Thanksgiving is that make a meal your guests will love. It doesn't have to be all the "traditional" dishes if that's not what you and your crowd is into. Shake things up!

Along those lines, I came up with this Kung Pao-style roast chicken. Before any of you food purists out there get huffy with me, I realize this bears no resemblance to actual Kung Pao Chicken (a dish I adore, by the way). Rather, the flavors of the glaze and, to some extent, the accompanying gravy and fried rice are inspired by the spicy-sweet flavors of a good Kung Pao (those desiring recipes for actual Kung Pao Chicken can look here, here or here). However, the presentation has been modified to be something more akin to Thanksgiving: a whole roasted bird with gravy.

Consider the side of fried rice sort of like the accompanying stuffing, and I hope you'll see how this could be a satisfying alternative to traditional turkey and stuffing. Alternatively, you could just make this anytime for a satisfying dinner. You can this really spicy if you want by amping up the cayenne pepper and red chili pepper flakes. I went for something that gives a gentle undercurrent of heat. Be sure to cook the rice in advance for the fried rice.

Kung Pao-Style Roast Chicken and Fried Rice
Chicken roasting method adapted (liberally) from a recipe from Epicurious; fried rice adapted from a Serious Eats recipe

Note: Please note that this recipe calls for already cooked white rice--plan ahead! Szechuan peppercorns are available from spice stores and Chinese markets. They are not "hot" like a chili pepper but rather create a numbing sensation. Pick through the peppercorns and discard any black seeds that may be present, as well as unopened pods--you only want to use the hulls. The seeds are gritty and don't taste good.

4-5 lb. whole chicken
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 tsp. ground Szechuan peppercorns (see note)
2 tsp. seasoned salt
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. fine garlic powder
Dash (less than 1/8 tsp.) cayenne pepper (or more, to taste)

Glaze:
2 tbsp. honey
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. rice vinegar
Pinch of red chili pepper flakes (or more, to taste)

Gravy:
Drippings from pan plus:
3 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tbsp. dry sherry (amontillado)
1 tbsp. rice vinegar
1 tbsp. sugar
2 tsp. dark sesame oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups chicken broth
2 tbsp. cornstarch
Pinch of red chili pepper flakes (or more, to taste)

Fried rice:
2 cups cooked white rice (plan ahead: cooking the rice takes about 35 minutes)
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 sweet or yellow onion, diced
2 celery ribs, diced
2 tsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. sesame oil
1/2 cup roasted peanuts
1 large egg, lightly beaten


1. Preheat oven to 375 F. Set a V-rack into a roasting pan. Place the chicken, breast-side up, on the rack. Brush the chicken with vegetable oil. Combine ground Szechuan peppercorns, seasoned salt, black pepper, garlic powder and cayenne pepper in a small bowl. Rub the spice mixture all over the chicken. Roast in the oven for 25 minutes. Add 1/4 cup of water to the roasting pan and roast another 15 minutes.

2. Combine the glaze ingredients in a small bowl and whisk until combined. Brush the chicken with glaze and continue roasting the chicken for another 40 to 50 minutes, brushing with glaze every 10 minutes until the chicken is cooked through (an instant-read thermometer stuck into thick portion of the breast or thigh should read at least 165 F). Remove chicken from rack and set aside on a cutting board to cool for about 10 minutes before carving the chicken.

3. Transfer drippings (about 2 tbsp. worth) from chicken roasting pan to a 10-inch nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Add the soy sauce, sherry, vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, garlic cloves, chicken stock, cornstarch and red chili pepper flakes and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until the gravy has thickened, about 5 to 10 minutes.

4. Make the fried rice (you can do this while the chicken is roasting): Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the rice and 1 tbsp. of vegetable oil and sauté until the rice is lightly golden and chewy, about 5 minutes. Remove the rice from the pan. Add the remaining vegetable oil and, when hot, add the onion and celery and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Return the fried rice to the pan and add the soy sauce, sesame oil and peanuts. Stir to combine, then push the ingredients to the sides leaving a 4-inch dry circle in the middle of the pan. Add the egg to the circle, and stir to scramble, then combine with other ingredients.

5. Serve the chicken carved with the fried rice an gravy on the side.

Thanksgiving Central

Faux Pho Salad (Vietnamese Chicken Salad)

Pho, the popular Vietnamese noodle soup made with beef, a spiced broth and fresh garnishes is wonderful but also wonderfully filling. Sometimes a little too much. Yet the flavors are so good. I created this salad as a way to enjoy them without filling up on noodles. The salad also uses chicken instead of beef, although I bet a version with beef, such as broiled flank steak, would be really good too. Since there aren't noodles here, this isn't pho. More like "faux" pho.

Faux Pho Salad (Vietnamese Chicken Salad)
Makes two entree portions

1 star anise pod
3 cardamom pods
1/2 tsp. coriander seeds
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp. fine garlic powder
4 tbsp. vegetable oil
3/4 lb. chicken breast cutlets
Salt, to taste
Gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes), to taste (may substitutes red chili pepper flakes or Aleppo pepper flakes
3-4 cups torn romaine lettuce leaves
1 carrot, peeled and shredded
1/2 English cucumber, cut in quarters lengthwise then sliced into 1/4-inch pieces
1 tbsp. lime juice
1/2 tsp. dark sesame oil
1 inch peeled ginger root, finely minced (I use a Microplane)
1/2 tsp. honey
1/4 cup unsalted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

1. Combine star anise, cardamom and coriander in a small frying pan over medium and toast until the spices are fragrant, shaking the pan occasionally, about 2-3 minutes. Allow to cool then transfer to a spice grinder and grind until fine. Combine with the cinnamon and garlic powder and set aside.

2. Heat 2 tbsp. vegetable oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and add to the pan. Season with the ground spice mixture, salt and gochugaru. Cook until the chicken is browned and cooked through, about 10 minutes, turning halfway through. Set chicken aside on a cutting board, then slice into bite-size pieces.

3. Combine lettuce, carrot and cucumber in a large bowl. In a small bowl (I like to use a 1-cup glass measuring cup), whisk together the remaining 2 tbsp. of vegetable oil, lime juice, sesame oil, ginger, honey and a small pinch of salt. Pour dressing over the salad and toss to combine.

4. Divide the salad between two bowls and top with half the cooked chicken, peanuts, cilantro and pickled jalapeño slices.


Quick-Pickled Jalapeño Slices

2 jalapeño peppers
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup white vinegar
1 tbsp. sugar
1/2 tbsp. kosher salt

Cut off both ends of the peppers. Using a paring knife, carefully cut through the ribs on the inside of the pepper and remove the ribs and seeds, leaving the peppers as long tubes. Slice the peppers into 1/8-inch rings.

Bring remaining ingredients to boil. Add the sliced jalapeños and remove from the heat. Allow to cool for about 10 minutes, then transfer to a container to store in the refrigerator until ready to use (can be made up to a 1 day in advance).

Lucky Peach 101 Easy Asian Recipes

"...the magazine equivalent of throwing an M-80 into a bowl of ramen and taking a crime-scene photo of the results." That's how--writing in the second issue--editor Peter Meehan described the first issue of Lucky Peach, the irreverent food quarterly launched in 2011 by Meehan and Momofuku chef David Chang.

Each issue revolves around a theme, such as the apocalypse (#6), gender (#8), and obsessions (#14). The magazine's recipes range from the exotic to the simple, including cultural mash-ups like a recipe from issue #1 for Instant Ramen Cacio e Pepe. They once created an issue-within-an-issue (for #9) called "Mad/Guts" about a René Redzepi food conference and stuffed the small-size book inside an insert with a photo of a woman's belly--so extracting the book was like conducting a c-section.

And they haven't shied away from complicated recipes, like the holiday issue's (#13) 11-page spread on constructing an elaborate Tuscan-style Christmas gingerbread house, complete with blueprints. Or the Roast Chicken, 2034, a.k.a. "The Frankenbird" (#6),  a chicken that had its skin carefully removed, its meat replaced with pork glued in place with meat glue, the skin carefully reattached, and the whole thing roasted.

So when Peter Meehan and the editors of Lucky Peach put out the cookbook Lucky Peach 101 Easy Asian Recipes, I wondered how "easy" the recipes would really be. After all, a chef like Chang probably has a different idea of what's "easy" than a home cook like me.

Chineasy Cucumber Salad

Thankfully, the recipes in the book really are pretty easy with one important caveat: the ingredients. This isn't the kind of Asian cookbook that instructs you to make Pad Thai with ketchup; recipes call for authentic ingredients, the kind you can maybe find in the Asian foods aisle, although more likely you'll need to visit an Asian market. Recognizing this, the cookbook opens with a helpful section explaining the ingredients called for in the recipes. Substitutions are sometimes provided in this section. Take Shaoxing wine, for example. The book acknowledges that many cooks substitute sherry for this ingredient, which is similar in some respects. But they also note that shelling out for the authentic stuff will make the dish taste better, however, they also acknowledge that the cheap Shaoxing wine you can find in the Asian aisle, which has salt added to make it non-potable, will also work fine.

The book's recipes are divided into 12 categories, with a dozen or so recipes for most categories save for dessert, which features only two--well, really only one, since the first recipe is sliced oranges. The other is Egg Custard Tarts, a very simple recipe that uses puff-pastry cut-outs baked in a muffin tin to form molds for a simple vanilla-egg custard. It doesn't strike me as particularly Asian, but it does sound good and quite simple if you use store-bought frozen puff pastry. The book acknowledges that the default Asian dessert is cut fruit (hence the oranges recipe).

Elsewhere, the recipes are clearly Asian and run the pan-Asian gamut of Chinese, Japanese, Korean and other cuisines. Many of these you'll probably recognize, like Beef Satay, grilled skewers of flank steak marinated in a mixture of coconut milk, garlic, ginger and spices and served with a simple peanut sauce made with creamy peanut butter, soy sauce, garlic and water. I made a sampling of the recipes from the book and was pleased with all of them.

Jap Chae with added chicken

I started with Jap Chae, one of my favorite dishes to order in Korean restaurants. It's a noodle and vegetable dish made with sweet potato noodles, which are a translucent gray color when dry and even first cooked but, but once tossed with a a brown sauce, they pick up that color, turning a beautiful golden brown. The book notes that the dish is often a side, although I added chicken to mine and served it as a main. The hardest thing about this recipe was finding the noodles, which weren't to be found in the Asian aisles at Giant or Whole Foods but which I did acquire from an Asian market in Chinatown. This recipe was easy to follow and the resulting dish was tasty and exactly what I expected.

Next, I went for a soup-and-salad combo of the "Chineasy" Cucumber Salad and the Hot and Sour Soup. The salad is super easy--it's just cut up cucumbers with peanuts, cilantro and dressing, but again assembling the dressing could prove the most difficult task, as it calls for Chinkiang vinegar (also known as "black" vinegar) and Sichuan chili oil. Lacking the latter ingredient, I sprinkled my salad with a pinch of gochugaru, which is Korean chili pepper flakes. This gives the salad just a bit of kick. It's a wonderfully simple and refreshing side to something spicier.

For the soup, I was so excited the book had a recipe for Hot & Sour Soup, the Chinese staple that is one of my favorite soups and among the first Chinese dishes I learned to love as a child. I remember, as a teenager, making a version of Hot & Sour Soup from a packet that was absolutely terrible (I actually made it multiple times, despite the fact that it didn't taste anything like the soup from a Chinese restaurant).

Hot and Sour Soup

Thankfully, the Lucky Peach version is really good, a faithful rendition of the soup that's hot (although not too much) and flavorful. A couple weeks after making this, I ordered hot and sour soup from a Chinese restaurant. It was hot--far hotter than this--but had an unpleasantly thick texture, likely thickened with cornstarch. The Lucky Peach recipe doesn't thicken the broth, and it doesn't need it. In making this, I made a substitution regarding the pork. The recipe calls for 8 oz. of pork shoulder cut into matchsticks. For simplicity, I substituted ground pork. I also ended up substituting  an additional 8 oz. of ground pork for the tofu, since Giant was out of tofu the day I made this. Flavorful-wise, the soup was still tasty, although I definitely would recommend making the soup with a mixture of pork and tofu, as I like the combination of textures. Lastly, there's a mistake in this recipe: dried wood ear mushrooms are soaked in step 1, but then never reappear. They should be added after returning the soup to a simmer in step 3 (this was corrected in the online version). Here again, I made a substitution, as I couldn't find dried wood ear mushrooms, so I used fresh shiitakes. Still delicious.

Other soups in the book include miso (located in the short "breakfast" section), chicken noodle (similar to the chicken soup that ran in Lucky Peach issue #1), beef noodle soup (a recipe that looks like a simpler version of the delicious soup at Momofuku CCDC), a miso version of clam chowder, a slow-cooker version of pho and, of course, ramen.

Kung Pao Chicken

The last thing I made from the book was Kung Pao Chicken, an adaptation of the Kung Pao Shrimp that appears in the book (substituting cubed raw chicken for shrimp is an easy swap). Like Hot and Sour Soup, this is another of my long-time favorite Chinese recipes, one that I have a good go-to recipe for. When I make it, I use red chili pepper flakes, whereas this recipe calls for 10 small dried red chilies. The challenge with this instruction is which chili pepper to use. I used chiles de árbol, which I found at Whole Foods. They gave the dish a mild spiciness (unless you eat one--then wow, be careful, as they are hot). The recipe states that they intentionally dialed back the heat, but it would be easy to ramp back up. If you like the look of a few whole chilies, you could always use both the 10 (or more) dried chilies plus a generous pinch of chili flakes. I liked the heavy use of vegetables in this recipe, which includes red and green bell peppers and celery, in addition to the usual scallions.

There are lots of other dishes I want to try. Thumbing through the book while writing this article, the Miso-Glazed Explant caught my eye. Again, this is super-simple: cut Japanese eggplant in half, brush with oil, roast and glaze with red miso and mirin. Sounds delicious, Asian and easy, just as promised.

Jap Chae
Adapted from a recipe in Lucky Peach 101 Easy Asian Recipes by Peter Meehan and the editors of Lucky Peach; also available online

Note: The original recipe does not include chicken, which I added. Other substitutions I made are noted below.

10 oz. sweet potato noodles
2 tbsp. vegetable oil (the original recipe called for grapeseed oil), plus more as needed
1 lb. boneless-skinless chicken breast cutlets, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (this was not included in the original recipe)
1 large or 2 small yellow onions (about 3 cups), thinly sliced (the original recipe called for red onion)
2 red bell peppers, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 large carrot, peeled and cut julienne
8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps thinly sliced
4-5 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces
4-5 garlic cloves, minced (about 2 tbsp.)
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup low-sodium tamari (the original recipe calls for standard soy sauce)
2 tsp. sugar
1 1/2 tsp. dark sesame oil
3 tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

1. Cook the noodles in boiling water according to package directions. While they cook, prepare a large bowl of ice water. When the noodles are done, drain them, then transfer to the ice water to cool. Once cooled, set aside in a large bowl until ready to use.

2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the chicken and sauté until cooked through, about 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove chicken from pan. Add additional oil to the pan if needed. When the oil is hot, add the onion and bell peppers and sauté until the vegetables have softened, about 5-6 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then add the carrot, mushrooms, scallions and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the mirin to the pan, and stir to combine and deglaze the pan, scraping off any browned bits on the bottom of the pan with a spatula or wooden spoon.

4. Add the cooked chicken and vegetable mixture to the bowl with the noodles. Add the soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and sesame seeds and toss to combine.

Hot and Sour Soup
Adapted from the recipe in Lucky Peach 101 Easy Asian Recipes by Peter Meehan and the editors of Lucky Peach; also available online

1/2 cup wood ear mushrooms (note: wood ear mushrooms are generally sold dried; I couldn't find them, so instead, I used 8 oz. fresh shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps thinly sliced)
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbsp. chopped fresh ginger (about 1 1/2 inches of peeled ginger root)
4-5 scallions, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
8 oz. ground pork (the original recipe called for  pork shoulder, cut into fat matchsticks)
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth (the original recipe didn't specify low-sodium)
8 oz  soft tofu, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (as my grocery store was out of tofu, I substituted an additional 8 oz. of ground pork, but I really recommend making the recipe with tofu, as it adds texture)
1 tsp.  sugar
1/2 cup rice vinegar
3 tbsp. soy sauce
1 tsp. freshly ground  black pepper
1 tsp. dark  sesame oil
Sriracha (1 tbsp. or more to taste)
2  large eggs, lightly beaten (optional)
Fried Chinese noodles (optional, not in the original recipe)

1. If using fresh shiitake mushrooms, heat 1 tbsp. of oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add mushrooms and sauté until lightly browned, about 5 minutes, then remove from the pan and aside. If using dried wood ear mushrooms, place them in a bowl and cover with warm water. Soak until plump and pliable, about 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2. Heat remaining oil in the pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, ginger, scallions, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the meat is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add the broth and increase heat to medium-high to bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to medium-low and continue simmering.

3. Stir in the tofu (if using), sugar, vinegar, soy sauce, pepper, sesame oil and sriracha. Return the mixture to a simmer. Adjust to taste with additional salt, srirarcha and/or vinegar, and stir in the mushrooms.

4. Slowing add the beaten eggs to the soup while gently stirring, which will set the egg into strands. Serve immediately. I like to add a side of crunchy fried Chinese noodles.

Restaurant: Momofuku CCDC (Washington, D.C.)

The arrival of Momofuku CCDC and its accompanying bakery, Milk Bar, has been the most hotly anticipated restaurant opening in D.C. this year. Once it became known that famed New York restauranteur David Chang was moving into downtown's boutique-laced CityCenterDC development, the watch began for when he would open. Although late summer was rumored, Milk Bar finally flung its doors open first on Friday, October 23, followed the next day by Momofuku CCDC.

How did Washingtonians react? Chaos is one word to describe the mad-rush to be among the first to sample Milk Bar's crack pie and slurp Momofuku's ramen. Hours-long down-the-block lines formed for Milk Bar. Available reservations for Momofuku CCDC quickly disappeared (as I'm writing this on the morning of November 8, I see there are three either very early or very late times available on Open Table for Monday, December 7. That's it). What's behind this madness?

Like the most successful restauranteurs, Chang, a Northern Virginia native, hasn't just built a chain but a brand, one with a dedicated following of food-minded individuals. It all started in 2004 with the first Momofuku restaurant, the Noodle Bar in New York. Today the Momofuku empire encompasses 11 restaurants in 4 cities, 7 Milk Bar bakeries, 2 cocktail bars, a magazine and several cookbooks. Chang and Milk Bar pastry chef Christina Tosi have both won multiple James Beard Awards and have appeared as judges on cooking shows like Top Chef and MasterChef. They are clearly among the American foodie elite.

Momofuku and its offshoots employ a similar strategy that I believe is what makes them so popular: a winning and refreshing formula of clashing high-and-low brow styles. Inspiration for Momofuku cooking runs the gamut from street-food to high-end tasting menus. Similarly, Milk Bar features original confections made from exacting recipes but featuring kitschy ingredients like highly processed children's cereals. This makes Momofuku cuisine immediately familiar but also exciting and different.

Spicy Cucumber

I'm no stranger to the brand. I first got into Momofuku through its magazine, Lucky Peach, which I started reading soon after it began publishing. It was there I came across the recipe for Corn Cookies, which I absolutely fell in love with. I got the Milk Bar Cookbook and made Crack Pie and Compost Cookies, plus I adapted Tosi's cereal milk concept to create an ice cream pie and a baked Alaska. Chris and I had a wonderful dinner at Momofuku's Ma Peche a few years ago, and have been known to stop in for cookies at New York Milk Bars. So my expectations for Momofuku's DC debut aren't formed from just the hype but my own experience.

Walking into Momofuku CCDC at 7 p.m. on Saturday, I was instantly grateful that I had pounced on the opportunity to make reservations, as I overheard the host tell walk-ins that the wait was 2 1/2 hours. Incredible. Even more incredible, the "okay" responses, as said parties gave their names and settled in for the long wait while we were seated after just a few minutes passed to clear our table. Sorry guys, I just don't do long waits for restaurants.

Brisket Buns

Although Chang told Washingtonian's Todd Kliman that CCDC is not a Noodle Bar, the restaurant's menu does most closely resemble Noodle Bar's, with its prominent selection of noodles and buns. Other menu items appear sourced from other Momofuku restaurants as well: there's the "country hams" you can find on the Ssam Bar menu, and the Kimchi Apple Salad, "Wedgeless" Wedge Salad and Pork Bun look borrowed from the current Ma Peche menu. But who really cares if parts of the menu are duplicated, since it's not like we can go elsewhere in D.C. for these dishes. The menu is divided into snacks, buns, salads, noodles & rice, meat & fish, vegetables and "etc.," a category that includes meat and fish dishes but that read more like appetizers such as Shrimp Louie served with lettuce wraps, Russian dressing and jalapeño.

Momofuku Ramen

Of course, we began the evening with a round of drinks. The bar serves all of the cocktails in rocks glasses, even "up" drinks normally served in a cocktail glass. This meant that my Juniper #3, a bitter-sweet and sour concoction of barrel-aged gin, apricot, Campari and lemon, looked kinda puny taking up the bottom fourth of a tumbler, but it was a decent drink. I was more impressed with CCDC's take on the classic Vieux Carré, which, served on the rocks as they do, actually takes up the full glass. They mix their rye and bitters with armagnac brandy instead of the traditional cognac, for a drink that's sweet and sophisticated.

On the advice of a coworker who'd already eaten at CCDC, we started with one of the snacks, the Spicy Cucumber, which effectively blends the cooling powers of cold cucumber chunks with a spicy sesame-scallion sauce and arrives topped with chopped toasted almonds. Our other starter was the brisket buns. Each bun order comes with two tortillas-like buns wrapped around a filling, in this case flavorful tender brisket with (mild) horseradish sauce, cucumber and pickled onion. These items have other more interesting ingredients than just what's printed on the menu, which the runners bringing them will tell you about. However, they rattle them off so fast--and the restaurant is so loud--that it's unlikely you'll actually catch what they'll telling you.

Beef Noodle Soup

For our mains, we split two of the noodle dishes. Both came in large bowls and I appreciated that they provided small bowls so we could share both of them. Given Momofuku's origins as noodle restaurant, you would hope they would excel here, and they didn't disappoint. The namesake dish--the Momofuku Ramen--was very good. The noodles had a chewy texture that rivals (but does not surpass) the ramen at Daikaya. It features two kinds of pork--pork belly and pork shoulder, both of which were flavorful and in sufficient quantity. In a nice change of pace, the ramen broth was not too salty, something that sometimes bothers me at Daikaya.

Our other bowl was the Beef Noodle Soup, which was also delicious. The noodles were a little thinner than the ramen but were just as chewy. The broth was intensely beefy and like the pork in their ramen, the brisket came prepared two ways: sliced and shredded.  As big as these bowls were, we polished them both off.

Milk Bar Crack Pie

When it comes to dessert, it's important to manage some expectations. CCDC doesn't have a proper dessert menu. Rather, they allow you to order anything from the attached Milk Bar bakery. Depending on what you're expecting, this could be a plus or minus.

On the plus side, this is a fantastic way to experience Milk Bar without having to stand in the bakery's ridiculously long (and from what I hear slow) line. That line wouldn't be forming if the items weren't tasty. I'm a particularly big fan of the cookies. We ordered two of each to to go and couldn't resist biting into the Bluberry and Cream Cookie as soon we got home. It is an exquisitely good combination of dried cranberries and "milk crumbs," which are made from white chocolate, milk powder, butter and sugar.

On the minus side, instead of a properly plated dessert with warm and cold elements, sauces and other toppings like you'd usually get at a restaurant, you're getting a dessert from the fridge with a plastic or paper wrapper. The pie, I think, in particular suffers from this presentation. I've made Crack Pie  and it's really good. Served like this it's still tasty, but rather cold and hard. It might be worth Tosi's time to consider upscaling the presentation of some of the bakery's delicious items for presentation in the dining room.

I liked the minimalist, materials-oriented design of the restaurant, which reminded me a bit of the look of José André's Beefsteak. The boxy geometric interior is largely devoid of color, constructed of beige wood,  gray concrete, and black metal, plus huge plate glass windows. The service was also good. As busy as they were, I was afraid there could be problems, but the only real snafu was when our noodle arrived without any utensils for eating them. Otherwise, service was prompt and attentive, with water and cocktail refills arriving just-in-time.

Would I stand in line for 2 1/2 hours for this? No, I wouldn't, but as I said earlier, I'm just not into that. This also wasn't the best Momofuku meal we've ever had--that honor still goes to our wonderfully memorable dinner at Ma Peche. That said, my high expectations were pretty much met by our first visit. All of the food was really good and I would certainly consider going back. This is the second outpost in the CityCenterDC development to open from a major New York-based chef (the other being Daniel Boulud's DBGB). Further proof that D.C.'s restaurant scene has really moved into the big leagues recently.

Momofuku CCDC, 1090 I St. NW (at 11th Street), Washington, D.C. (in the CityCenterDC development). (202) 602-1832. Reservations: Open Table.

Related

Restaurant: Ma Peche (New York, N.Y)

Corn Cookies

Compost Cookies

Crack Pie

Blackberry-Vanilla Ice Cream Pie with Corn Cookie Crust

Cereal Milk Ice Cream Pie with Compost Cookie Crust

Cereal Milk Baked Alaska with Brown Butter Cake

Roasted Tomato Yaki Udon

Yaki Udon is a simple Japanese dish of fried udon noodles--those wide Japanese noodles that resemble linguine--usually served with a mixture of meat and vegetables. I thought it could be interesting to develop a version of Yaki Udon that uses tomatoes.

By now, a lot of you have probably heard of the so-called "fifth taste," umami. The term is Japanese and mean roughly "savory." Lots of Japanese dishes are loaded with umami flavor, which comes from foods high in glutamates like mushrooms, seaweed and certain types of fish. Dashi, for example, is a Japanese broth made from dried kombu seaweed and dried fish flakes known as bonito or katsuobushi. Dashi doesn't taste like much by itself, but the glutamate-rich broth is used to enhance the flavor of other ingredients (I've used it to poach salmon, for example).

Tomatoes, although not something we commonly associate with Japanese food, are also loaded with glutamates. This isn't so apparent with raw tomatoes, but when roasted, those savory notes really come through. I thought it would be interesting to make Yaki Udon using a roasted tomato sauce. A sort of "Japanese Spaghetti" if you will.

I roasted and pureed fresh tomatoes for this dish and then made a sauce with onions, scallions, garlic and shiitake mushrooms. Although spaghetti is commonly garnished with grated parmesan, I used black sesame seeds. Although it takes awhile to roast the tomatoes, this can be done ahead of time. Otherwise, the dish comes together quite quickly.

Roasted Tomato Yaki Udon

3 lb. ripe red tomatoes, cut into 1 to 2 inch chunks
4 tbsp. vegetable oil, divided
1/2 tsp. sea salt
10 oz. package dried udon noodles
1/2 yellow onion, diced
4-5 scallions chopped, white and light green parts separated from the green part
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and caps sliced into 1/4-inch slices
2 tbsp. low-sodium tamari (may use soy sauce)
1 tbsp. mirin
1 tbsp. toasted sesame oil
2-3 tbsp. black sesame seeds

1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Combine tomatoes, 2 tbsp. vegetable oil and sea salt in a large bowl and toss to combine. Spread the tomatoes in an even layer in a 9 X 13 baking dish. Roast the tomatoes, stirring every 30 minutes, until the tomatoes have shriveled, browned a little around the edges and significantly reduced in volume, about 3 to 3 1/2 hours. Set aside to cool. Transfer tomatoes and any remaining juices to a food processor and pulse 5 to 6 times to make a chunky sauce. Store sauce in the refrigerator until ready to use.

2. Bring a large pot of water to boil. Add the udon noodles and cook until the noodles are al dente, about 4-6 minutes (may vary by noodle brand, consult package directions). Drain noodles and set aside.

3. Heat remaining 2 tbsp. of oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onion and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the white and light green chopped scallions and the garlic and cook for about 1 minute, stirring frequently. Add the mushrooms and sauté until tender and their water has evaporated, about 4 minutes.

4. Add the noodles to the stir fry and stir to combine. Add the soy sauce and mirin (the liquid will help break up the noodles if they are sticking together). Stir to combine the noodles with the other ingredients and cook about 1-2 minutes. Add the roasted tomato sauce and the sesame oil, reduce heat to medium-low and cook just enough to reheat the tomatoes, 1-2 minutes. Add the sesame oil and chopped scallion greens and stir to combine.

5. Serve the noodles in bowls topped with a sprinkle of black sesame seeds.

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Asian Slaw with Ground Cherries and Chicken

 Pretty much any American child knows that cherries grow on trees. After all, besides after 1) being the first U.S. president, 2) leading the American army in the Revolutionary War and 3) appearing on the $1 bill, Washington's fourth most famous act was chopping down that cherry tree (or rather 'fessing up about it). Thus, we all knew from a very early age that cherries grow on trees, before we knew that berries grow on vines or that potatoes grow on the ground (and sometimes in 2nd grade classroom water glasses).

Ground cherries, most still in their husks.

Along come ground cherries to throw a big ol' monkey wrench in our early education. Cherries? Growing on the ground?! What madness is this?!

Physalis is the genus name for a group of flowering plants, some of which bear edible fruit. Many of the fruit are referred to as ground cherries, and they are also related to the larger tomatillo, which shares the same papery skin. Ground cherries are smaller, resembling golden cherry tomatoes. They don't taste like tomatoes, however. They have a sweet flavor and tart tanginess reminiscent of pineapple.

Ground cherries with husks removed.

Because pineapple pairs nicely with Asian flavors such as soy and ginger, I thought these little beauties I picked up at the New Morning Farm farmers market recently would be good in an Asian-inspired slaw. They were delightful actually. If you see some at your market, I hope you pick them up, and please let me know how you use them.


Asian Slaw with Ground Cherries and Chicken

Makes 3 dinner portions

2 tbsp. olive oil

2/3 lb. chicken breast cutlets

1/4 tsp. garlic powder

Salt, to taste

Pinch of red chili pepper flakes

Half a head of green cabbage, shredded

1 yellow or orange carrot, peeled and cut into fine strips with a julienne peeler or coarsely shredded with a grater

1/4 yellow onion, thinly sliced

2 tbsp. fresh cilantro leaves (stems removed and discarded)

1/2 cup ground cherries, skins removed

1/2 cup peanuts, coarsely chopped

1 tbsp. black sesame seeds

Dressing:

1 to 2 inches of fresh ginger, peeled and finely grated (should yield about 2 tsp.)

2 tbsp. olive oil

2 tsp. toasted sesame oil

2 tbsp. fresh lime juice

2 tsp. soy sauce

1. Heat 2 tbsp. olive oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add the chicken breasts and sprinkle with garlic powder, salt and red pepper flakes. Pan fry until cooked through, about 10 minutes, turning the chicken breasts over after about 5 minutes. Set aside to cool, then chop into 1/2-inch cubes.

2. In a large bowl, combine the cabbage, carrot, onion, cilantro, ground cherries, peanuts, sesame seeds and cooked chicken. 

3. Whisk together the dressing ingredients and pour over the slaw. Toss to coat. Serve in large bowls.

Chicken Fried Farro

One of our favorite dishes we had recently at China Chilcano was the Aeropuerto, a vegetable fried rice dish with noodles. It was so good with nicely balanced sweetness and soy-sauce saltiness. It was with that in mind that I came up with this recipe for Chicken Fried Farro, which substitutes the quick-cooking wheat grain farro for rice.

Farro is often sold semi-pearled, meaning some of the bran has been removed, which makes it cook faster. Technically this means it isn't a "whole" grain, but if such a strict definition were applied to many foods, we'd see a whole lot of "whole grain" products disappear. After it's been boiled to a chewy (al dente) texture, you can substitute it for rice in this dish and it works great.

China Chilcano's menu claims that the Aeropuerto has 20 vegetables in it. I limited mine to five (onion, celery, carrot, snow peas, scallions), but you could certainly add more or use different ones. Bell pepper, zucchini, cabbage, peas, green beans, broccoli, cauliflower and many others would be welcome. The brown sugar is optional. Fried rice doesn't have to be a sweet dish, but China Chilcano's is pretty sweet and I was aiming for a similar flavor with the sauce, made with soy sauce, red chili pepper flakes, garlic and ginger.


Chicken Fried Farro

2 cups water
Pinch of salt
1 cup pearled farro, rinsed
4 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 yellow onion, diced
2 or 3 celery ribs, diced
2 carrots, peeled and diced
1 cup snow peas, cut into thirds
1 lb. chicken breast meat, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3 tsp. toasted sesame oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp. fresh ginger, minced
1 bunch scallions, white and green parts chopped separately
Generous pinch red chili pepper flakes
2 tbsp. dark brown sugar
3 tbsp. low-sodium tamari (or low-sodium soy sauce)

1. Bring 2 cups of water to boil. Add salt and farro, swirl to combine, then reduce heat to simmer. Cook the farro for about 18 minutes until cooked through but still chewy. Drain and set aside.

2. Heat 1 tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onion, carrot, celery and snow peas. Stir-fry until tender but still crisp and not browned, about 5 minutes. Remove from pan.

3. Heat 2 tbsp. vegetable oil in the skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken. Let it sit for about a minute to brown, then stir. Add 1 tsp. sesame oil and stir to combine. stir-fry until cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove from pan.

4. Reduce heat to medium. Add the remaining tbsp. of vegetable oil to the skillet, then add the garlic, ginger, white-part of the scallions and red chili pepper flakes. Stir-fry for about a minute, then add the cooked farro and the remaining 2 tsp. of sesame oil. Stir to combine, then add the cooked vegetables, cooked chicken, dark brown sugar and soy sauce. Stir to combine and reheat the cooked chicken and vegetables. Serve in shallow bowls topped with chopped scallion greens.

Kung Pao Chicken

I've mentioned before that I was a picky eater as a kid. But here's an interesting twist in that story: I loved Chinese from an early age. Even before I became a big fan of pizza, I was digging the Szechuan and Cantonese cuisines widely available in Portland.

And I wasn't in to your typical kid-food Chinese like sweet and sour pork or chow mein. Although my parents introduced me to Chinese through char siu (roast pork) noodle soup, I quickly moved on to the hot and spicy stuff. I loved hot and sour soup, General Tso's chicken and, my favorite, kung pao chicken.

Szechuan (or Sichuan) peppercorns

There are unfortunately a lot of rather bad recipes out there for kung pao chicken. They are too sweet, too saucy and not the right kind of spicy. I like kung pao chicken hot, but to make it right requires a little szechuan (or sichuan as it's sometimes spelled) peppercorn, a curious little Asian spice that really isn't pepper at all. It adds no heat. Instead it adds tingle. Put one directly on your tongue and you'll feel a fizzy numbness for a couple minutes. This combination of heat and numbing is an authentic kung pao flavor and it's marvelous. The spice was actually banned from the United States until 2005, but it is now available (I got mine from Spice & Tea Exchange). It only takes a teaspoon for this dish, which isn't very much. You'll want to pick through them to discard the little black seeds. You're really only interested in the husk (don't worry if you don't get all the black seeds, they're just a little gritty).

I tinkered with this recipe until I got something I liked. It's sort of a marriage between the more traditional Kung Pao with the Szechuan peppercorns and the Westernized version with its celery and roasted peanuts (traditional calls for frying raw peanuts, which are hard to find). I find this recipe has a nice balance of spicy and salty with just a touch of sweet. It's also far less oily than what you might get in a restaurant.

Kung Pao Chicken

Marinade:
2 tsp. cornstarch
1 tbsp. dry sherry
1 tsp. low-sodium soy sauce or tamari
1 lb. boneless-skinless chicken breasts, cut into 3/4-inch cubes

Stir fry:
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
2 celery ribs, cut into 1/8-inch thick diagonal slices
3 garlic cloves, minced
6 scallions, white parts chopped, green parts separated and chopped on a diagonal
Generous pinch (or more to make it hotter) red chili pepper flakes
1 tsp. szechuan peppercorns, black seeds removed
1/2 cup roasted peanuts

Sauce:
1 tbsp. cornstarch
1 tbsp. dry sherry
1 tbsp. rice vinegar
3 tbsp. low-sodium soy sauce or tamari
1 tsp. sugar
3 tbsp. water
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil

Cooked jasmine rice (see recipe for perfect white rice, you can use jasmine or long-grain white)

1. Marinade: whisk together the cornstarch, dry sherry and soy sauce in a small bowl. Add the cubed raw chicken to a medium bowl. Pour the marinade over the chicken and stir to coat. Set aside while you prep and cook other ingredients.

2. Heat 1 tbsp. vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add the celery and stir-fry for 2-3 minutes. Remove from pan. Add the remaining tbsp. of oil. Add the marinated chicken. Let it it sit for a minute to brown, the stir fry until the chicken is cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove from pan, leaving the drippings behind.

3. Reduce heat under the pan to medium. Add the garlic, white-part of the scallions, red chili pepper flakes, szechuan peppercorns and peanuts. Stir to coat with the remaining oil and cook until the garlic is fragrant but not browned, about a minute.

4. Whisk together the sauce ingredients in a liquid measuring cup then pour into the pan. Once it starts to bubble, add back the stir-fried celery and chicken and stir to coat the other ingredients. Turn off the heat. Serve over cooked jasmine rice with a sprinkle of the green scallions.

Pho (Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup)

The first lesson about pho: it's pronounced "fuh," as in rhymes with "duh," which is what you can say once you've mastered that and other people still pronounce it like "foe" (or perhaps "faux").

Pho is one of the great Asian noodle soups. Its boom in the D.C. area preceded the recent ramen craze. I first tasted it in the early '2000s at Nam Viet Pho 79 in Cleveland Park and have enjoyed it more recently from Pho 14 in my neighborhood (ever wondered why pho restaurants are numbered? Northern Virginia Magazine did a story on this). I love the interplay between the warm broth, the onions, the beef and the fresh garnishes.

A typical bowl of pho is made with a spicy broth, flat rice noodles (I like something that isn't too wide, resembling linguini), meat (beef or chicken often) and fresh garnishes (cilantro, scallions, bean sprouts, a lime wedge). That last part is what distinguishes it from ramen, which generally has all or almost all cooked ingredients.

I actually forgot about my bean sprouts and the soup was tasty without them. I think the vegetable garnishes should really be considered interchangeable, even the cilantro, if you're one of those people with a genetic aversion to it (yes, that some people think cilantro tastes "soapy" is a genetic thing).

Although you can make it with chicken, I prefer beef in pho. I used sirloin, since that's what this Food Network Kitchen recipe called for, but you may use other cuts. I've seen it with flank steak, brisket and eye of round roast. The beef should not be overcooked. I suggest aiming for medium rare.

Be sure to use the right spices for this. Star anise and cinnamon are essential for flavoring the broth. I've seen clove, coriander and fennel seed use in other recipes too. And please don't skip the fish sauce. Sure, it smells funny, but mixed in with the other ingredients it does its job to add just enough pungency to elevate the the broth without making it fishy. A warm bowl of soup like this is perfect for these nasty cold winter nights.

Pho (Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup)
Adapted from a recipe by Food Network Kitchen

8 oz. rice noodles
1 tbsp. vegetable oil
12 oz. sirloin steak
1 yellow onion, sliced
3 inches fresh ginger, peeled and sliced in half
3 cups low-sodium chicken or beef broth
3 cups water
5 star anise pods
1 cinnamon stick
2 tbsp. fish sauce
4 scallions, thinly sliced
1/2 cup cilantro, coarsely chopped (optional, but I highly recommend it)
1 cup of bean sprouts (optional)
1 jalapeño pepper, sliced (optional)
lime wedges (optional)

1. Cook rice noodles according to package directions (do not overcook). Drain and set aside.

2. Heat vegetable oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Pierce sirloin all over with a fork to tenderize, then sear in the Dutch oven on both sides, cooking about 3-5 minutes per side. Set aside on a plate. Add the onion and ginger and sauté about 4 minutes. Then add the broth, water, star anise and cinnamon. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the fish sauce and bring to a boil for 5 minutes. Discard the ginger, star anise and cinnamon stick. Thinly slice the meat and add to the soup.

3. Divide the noodles among 3 or 4 large bowls. Ladle a generous portion of broth with meat and onions into each bowl, then top with scallions and cilantro (and, if desired, jalapeño pepper slices, lime wedges and bean sprouts).

Roasted Celery and Fennel with Peanut Sauce

Celery may very well be the Cinderella of the produce aisle.

It's a vegetable that does a lot of work. It's a common ingredient in base recipes upon which other flavors are built. Lots of stews, stuffings and casseroles begin with sautéing diced celery, generally with onion, and also sometimes carrot, a classical cooking trinity known as mirepoix in France or Soffrito in Italy. Celery is often around but never the star, while wicked step-sister vegetables like kale, Brussels sprouts and radishes bask in all the glory.

But celery has a fairy godmother, and that's peanuts.

Peanuts bring out the best in celery, which is why the classic snack of celery and peanut butter is such a refreshing treat. A couple years ago, I created a simple celery and peanut salad highlighting this pairing, a recipe that caught the eye of both my mother (she's reportedly served it to friends for lunch) and The New York Times.

I revisited the combination of celery and peanuts for this dish, which uses these ingredients in a warm roasted vegetable side with Southeast Asian flavors. It's a nice complement to a meat dish in a similar vein (I served them alongside these Thai Chicken Thighs with Garlic and Lime).

Here, celery and fennel are roasted together until tender and lightly browned and then dressed with a spicy-tangy peanut sauce before being finished with a sprinkle of cilantro and roasted peanuts. It's a simple, but satisfying dish that's a healthful excuse for eating peanut sauce (more healthful, I tell myself, than just peanut sauce with noodles).

Although its flavor is mellowed by the roasting, celery is still the star, melding beautifully with the peanut sauce, fennel and cilantro. When it comes to organizing the cast of your next Asian-inspired dinner, you may gravitate toward bok choy, daikon radishes or eggplant, but I think it's high-time to throw humble celery a glass slipper.

Roasted Celery and Fennel with Peanut Sauce

1 bunch of celery, ends trimmed and stalks cut on the diagonal in 2-inch pieces
1 bulb of fennel, stalks, fronds and core removed, cut into 2-inch pieces
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
Pinch of kosher salt
1 tsp. ginger, chopped
1 garlic clove, chopped
Pinch of red chili pepper flakes
¼ cup creamy peanut butter
2 tbsp. lime juice
1 tbsp. soy sauce
½ tsp. fish sauce
2-4 tbsp. water, as needed for texture
1 tsp. coconut sugar (or honey)

¼ cup chopped roasted peanuts
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Preheat oven to 425 F.

2. Combine celery and fennel in a large bowl. Add the oil and salt and toss to combine. Spread in an even layer in a 9 X 13 roasting pan and roast until tender, about 20-30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes.

3. In the bowl of a food processor, combine the ginger and garlic and pulse a few times to mince. Add red chili pepper flakes, peanut butter, lime juice, soy sauce and fish sauce and pulse until combined and smooth. Add enough water to achieve desired texture (it should be thin enough that you can pour it over the roasted vegetables, but not so thin that you couldn’t see it—aim for traditional yogurt thickness).

4. Serve the vegetables topped with peanut sauce, chopped peanuts and cilantro.

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