Sweetgreen's New Fall Menu: An In-Depth Analysis

October 20, 2014 Update: Since the original post, I've tried the Hummus Tahina, which is a wonderful update of the Chic-P, and the Curry Cauliflower and Quinoa Bowl, which is a fantastic new seasonal grain bowl made with curry-roasted cauliflower. A squirt of sirarcha gives it a nice kick.

It may be a cliché, but as a D.C. professional, I'm pretty hooked on the fast-casual lunch. I'm lucky that there are quite a few of them near my office--including two Chipotlé locations. But the one that gets the most of my midweek business is Sweetgreen.

If you're not familiar, Sweetgreen was started in 2007 in Washington, D.C. by three Georgetown University students and has since expanded to 27 locations in D.C., Maryland, Virginia, Pennsylvania, New York and Massachusetts. If you visit other fast-casual restaurants, the concept is similar: lots of fresh ingredients, many organic and/or local, assembled any way you like. What sets Sweetgreen apart is that its food is not only delicious, it's also healthy. Plus, I find their friendly service to be a cut above what I get at most other similar restaurants.

Yesterday, Sweetgreen made a rather dramatic overhaul of its menu. Where previously they offered eight signature salads plus one rotating monthly seasonal salad, they revamped the menu to consist of six signature green salads, three signature grain salads and three seasonal salads that will rotate each season (with an extra rotation in the summer to take advantage of summer's ever-changing produce bounty).

I'm very excited about this change. Although I loved the monthly special concept, it could be a drag if the monthly salad wasn't something you liked. I wasn't partial to last month's crab salad, for example, so all September I didn't visit as much as I did during, say, last November, when the monthly salad featured agave-roasted turkey, sweet potatoes and cauliflower, which I couldn't get enough of.

Whether you're a regular like me curious whether your old favorites are still there or a newbie that hasn't experienced Sweetgreen yet, here's a rundown of what to expect next time you visit so you can plan ahead, complete with calorie counts, which are calculated based on a "light" amount of dressing (so obviously more calories if you go "medium" or "heavy").

Seasonal Salads

There are three, and they all sound great. The Roasted Turkey and Fall Vegetable Salad (405 calories, pictured at top) is a fabulous flavor combination of  mesclun, roasted brussels sprouts, roasted sweet potatoes and cranberry vinaigrette. The sprouts could have used a little longer roast, but the potatoes were perfect. Since the menu was just updated yesterday, it's the only one I've tried so far, but I'm definitely looking forward to trying the other choices: Apples, Pears and Organic Cheddar Salad (425 cal.) with mesclun, kale, basil, candied pecans and balsamic vinaigrette, and Curry Cauliflower & Quinoa Bowl (560 cal.) with farro, arugula, cilantro, dried cranberries, roasted chicken, sriracha and cucumber tahini yogurt. I don't ever get the soup, but there are also two seasonal offerings: Organic Lentil Chickpea and Organic Butternut Squash Soup.

Signature Green Salads

I know some people get really attached to these signature salads and always order the same one. Rest assured that three of the most popular--the Kale Caesar (430 cal.), Guacamole Greens (540 cal.) and Spicy Sabzi (430 cal.)--are still on the menu and haven't changed, although you may notice their calorie counts are slightly different. A Sweetgreen representative told me this is because they reformulated the dressings a bit to improve their taste and quality. Gone from the menu are the Misoba, Santorini, Chic-P and District Cobb, although fans of the Chic-P and District Cobb will see that two of the new salads are very similar:

• Avocobbo (705 cal.). This is basically the old District Cobb but with blue cheese dressing instead of goat cheese and agave-dijon vinaigrette. It includes kale, romaine lettuce, tomatoes, raw corn, avocado, bacon, egg and chicken.
• Hummus Tahina (610 cal.). This bears a lot of resemblance to the old Chic-P salad, a mediterranean-inspired mix of kale, tomato, red onion, cucumber, pita chips, hummus, falafel and cucumber-tahini yogurt.
• Red Thai (375 cal.). Like the old Santorini salad, this is made with citrus shrimp, but that's the only thing it has in common with that salad. Red Thai also includes arugula, mesclun, sprouts, carrots, cabbage, spicy sunflower seeds, cucumber, basil and spicy cashew dressing.

Signature Grain Salads

Where before the only grain salad always on the menu was the Earth Bowl (775 cal. and still around, although now it also contains chickpeas), there are now also the Harvest Bowl (685 cal.: wild rice, kale, apples, sweet potatoes, almonds, goat cheese, chicken and balsamic vinaigrette) and Wild Child (545 cal.: wild rice, spinach, cilantro, peppers, raw beets, shredded cabbage, carrots, raw seeds, avocado, miso-sesame-ginger dressing).

Make Your Own

Given that the menu salads have changed, the ingredient options have also changed to reflect all of the aforementioned salads' ingredients. The dressings lineup has also changed a bit:

• In: cucumber tahini yogurt, blue cheese dressing, spicy cashew dressing
• Out: cucumber basil yogurt, truffle oil, champagne vinaigrette, lemon tahini, agave-dijon vinaigrette 
• Still around: pesto vinaigrette, sriracha, carrot chili vinaigrette, cranberry vinaigrette, lime squeeze, lemon squeeze, balsamic vinaigrette, lime-cilantro-jalapeño vinaigrette, balsamic vinegar, caesar, miso sesame ginger, extra virgin olive oil

I have no complaints about the new expanded menu and look forward to trying all the new offerings. And I suspect my old favorites, the Kale Caesar and Earth Bowl, will remain in the mix as well. 

Sweetgreen, Multiple locations, including 1065 5th Street NW (Mount Vernon Triangle), Washington, D.C. (202) 289-4674.

Food & Drink Podcasts

I've been slow to catch on to podcasts, the web-based format of audio programs available from iTunes and other outlets covering a myriad of topics and produced by professional or amateur "podcasters." Then early this year, my friend Jason told me he was starting one with a friend to cover food and fashion. Then a few months later, my friend Eddie started one on food and drinks with his friend Neil. Suddenly, I've found myself enjoying the medium, an entertaining way to learn new things about food and drinks.

The three podcasts discussed below have a different vibe but a similar format: two friends coming together to talk about their shared love of food, drinks and more. I really like the the dual-host format since the interaction makes the content richer than if it was a single person lecturing on these subjects. It also provides a context for the hosts to talk about more than just the subject at hand, adding a warm personal touch.

Food, Fashion and Fun

"I'm Jason with the appetite. And I'm Jaisyn with the eye for fashion," begins each episode of the A La Mode Podcast. My friend Jason Shriner, who teaches baking classes and blogs about baking on his website, The Aubergine Chef, started the podcast earlier this year with his friend Jaisyn Markley, a stylist and designer. Jason covers mostly food, while Jaisyn covers fashion and style (as well as technology, a fun sub-focus); however, they are not adverse to covering whatever else comes to mind. They also pepper their podcasts with tidbits from their personal and professional lives, giving their show a nice personal warmth, like sitting in on two friends catching up over coffee.

Although their podcasts don't always have a main theme, they do sometimes focus on topical issues. On a recent episode for example, they visited the Naughty Girls Donut Shop in Front Royal, Virginia. Jason had heard about the shop after seeing an article that the shop was subject to boycotts over its name, a reflection of the shop's "risqué" 1950s pinup decor (keep in mind that what was "risqué" 65 years ago probably counts as formal wear in some quarters today). Wanting to support a fellow baker, Jason, along with Jaisyn, visited the bakery and sampled chef Natalie Ramos' baked goods. Another of my recent favorites was their episode where they discussed their favorite cocktails, a nostalgic and entertaining rundown of drinks they've enjoyed for years and the stories behind them.

Bergstrom, Bitters and Byrrh

Speaking of drinks, I've become a willing student of the vast knowledge of all things wine, cocktails and more shared on the My Poor Liver Podcast. This Portland, Oregon-based podcast is hosted by my friend Eddie Creech and his friend Neil Thompson, who works in the Liner & Elsen Wine Merchants store in Portland. Their podcast is a wonderful balance of education and entertainment. Eddie and Neil have developed an engaging and witty repartee, playing up their roles as gay suburbanite dad and gay urbanite traveler, respectively. This creates a natural context for them to share new discoveries: Eddie mixes up the "cocktail of the week," while Neil talks about the restaurants he visited on a recent trip to Vegas, for example.

They've also begun interviewing local talent, providing a fascinating view into the buzzy Oregon food and wine scene through discussions with winemaker Josh Bergström of Bergström Wines and chef Anthony Cafiero of Ración. My favorite thing about their podcast is the knowledge they share about booze, which is vast and expert. They've had wonderful discussions on apéritif wines, vermouth, Italian wines, gin, gin, and more gin (after several episodes in a row of gin-based cocktails, they've promised a moratorium in favor of other spirits--we'll see if that lasts). They also make a lot of great recommendations, which is a double-edged sword for me: I'm always hearing about cool things I want to try, but since they are podcasting from Portland and I live in D.C., I'm at a disadvantage. However, it does teach me to keep my eyes peeled (I recently picked up from Schneider's on Capitol Hill a bottle of Byrrh at their recommendation, a red wine-based apéritif made with quinine). I also must thank Eddie and Neil for being supporters of my blog, as they have featured the Last Word cocktail and my Les Misérables Oscar Cocktail in recent episodes. Now it's my turn to share one of their drinks: check out Eddie's St. Germain Cocktail.

Avocados, Anchos and Appetites

Wanting to find a food or drink-related podcast closer to home, I asked the Washington Post Food writers during one of their weekly chats for recommendations. Editor Joe Yonan suggested Big Appetites, a newly launched podcast from local D.C. talents Sally Swift and Pati Jinich. This short-format podcast (each episode is 15 minutes, compared to the 45-60 minutes typical of the other two podcasts) focuses on cooking. Swift is the producer of the radio program The Splendid Table; Jinich is the creative talent behind the Mexican cooking television show and blog, Pati's Mexican Table. Together on Big Appetites they've discussed their love of avocados, chile peppers, tacos and vanilla, sharing their expertise and enthusiasm for each subject.

I'm always on the lookout for other great food and drink podcasts. Do you have one you really like? Please share it in the comments below.

Related: St. Germain Cocktail

St. Germain Cocktail

Eddie Creech, co-creator of the My Poor Liver Podcast, one of the three podcasts I wrote about today, shared this cocktail with me a few months ago. It's a nicely balanced bourbon cocktail with just enough sweetness plus floral and citrus notes from the St. Germain and Cointreau liqueurs.

St. Germain Cocktail
Recipe by Eddie Creech of My Poor Liver podcast.

1 1/2 oz. bourbon
3/4 oz. Cointreau
3/4 oz. St. Germain elderflower liqueur
Dash of grapefruit bitters
Grapefruit twist

Combine bourbon, Contreau, St. Germain and grapefruit bitters in a cocktail mixing glass with ice. Stir until well mixed and chilled. Strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with grapefruit twist.

Related: Food & Drink Podcasts

Fall Kale Salad

Food trends are funny things. Just a few years ago, I didn't know anyone who ate much kale, cooked, raw or otherwise. Today, it's everywhere. On my annual In and Out list, I've tried to declare it "out," but what's the point? People may say it's "out," but they're wrong. It is as popular as ever.

And that's not necessarily a bad thing, since kale is really good for you. It's often considered one of the super foods, loaded with vitamins, fiber and even protein.

Lacinato kale

There are different types of kale. Curly kale is the most common. I like it best cooked. For salads, I prefer lacinato kale (also known as "dinosaur" kale), which has dark green smoother, less fibrous leaves, making it both easier to chop and to eat.

This beautiful salad of classic fall ingredients was inspired by the new Logan Square salad at D.C.'s chain of gourmet Italian sandwich shops, Taylor. Taylor has long had a range of pasta salads made with large couscous-like pasta pearls they call "pasting." Recently, Taylor has branched out into new salads, including seasonal offerings like this salad. You can serve this salad as is or add grilled chicken.

Fall Kale Salad
Inspired by the Taylor Gourmet Logan Square salad

Dressing:
2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
1/2 tsp. honey
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 cup pecans
4-5 leaves lacinato kale, stems removed and leaves cut into thin strips
1 cup roasted diced butternut squash (see note below)
1/4 cup dried cranberries
1 tart-sweet apple (such as Jonagold), peeled, cored and diced
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese
Sliced garlic and herb-grilled chicken (optional, see note below)

1. Whisk together the dressing ingredients and set aside.

2. Heat a small frying pan over medium-low heat. Add the pecans and toast until fragrant, tossing occasionally, about 5-7 minutes. Set aside to cool, then coarsely chop.

3. Combine pecans, kale, squash, cranberries, apple and blue cheese in a large bowl. Add the dressing and toss to coat. Serve with chicken breasts if desired.

Note: To roast butternut squash, preheat oven to 475 F. 1. Toss 2 cups cubed butternut squash with 1 tbsp. olive oil and a pinch of salt and spread in an even layer on a baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes, stir squash and roast an additional 15 to 20 minutes until cooked through and lightly browned. Set aside to cool.

Note: To make the chicken, heat 2 tbsp. olive oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. Add 3/4 lb. chicken breast cutlets. Season chicken with garlic powder, dried oregano, salt and a pinch of red chili pepper flakes. Sauté until cooked through, about 10 minutes, turning chicken halfway. Transfer to a cutting board and slice into strips.

Dry Gin Martini

Order a cocktail by name and most times you know what you're going to get. That's not necessarily the case with the martini. Sure, it's one of the most popular cocktails, and it's considered one of the most refined. But it's also one subject to heated debate over what is and isn't a martini, leading to potential customer confusion and disappointment for those who do not (or don't know they need to) be specific in what they're ordering.

Gin vs. Vodka

A key question in the martini debate is whether you can make a martini with vodka. Traditionally, martinis are made with gin and vermouth (and a garnish, often an olive or lemon twist), and purists will vehemently insist that a martini is not made with vodka. However, in the mid 20th Century, it became popular to make martinis with vodka, while the amount of vermouth gradually reduced and sometimes vanished (I seem to recall a joke about a guy making a martini, and when it came time to add the vermouth, he uncorked it and waved the bottle over the drink, so that only its "fumes" were mixed in).

The most famous vodka martini drinker was, naturally, James Bond, who, in most of his films ordered a "vodka martini, shaken, not stirred." The vodka question aside, bartenders will tell you that's a terrible order, although not necessarily because of the vodka. Drinks like martinis that are all liquors really should be stirred not shaken, but who's to argue when your patron has a license to kill?

"Martini" Beyond Martini

My own first attempt at ordering a martini was a disaster. I was 21 years old and floating down the River Thames in London at a boat party for my just-concluded study-abroad program. Since I'd turned 21 while in London, the entirety of my experience ordering drinks up that point had been in Britain (and a little bit in Europe). I'd started with hard cider (just "cider" over there) and progressed to beer, but hadn't really tackled cocktails in a meaningful way. So I decided I wanted something special to mark to occasion and ordered what I viewed as very grown-up drink, a martini.

It was terrible. Little did I know that when ordering a martini, I really should have remembered that James Bond always ordered a "vodka martini" never just a "martini." Although I think even in Britain a "martini" is expected to gin and vermouth, there are some bartenders who will take you literally and pour you just a glass of Martini & Rossi vermouth. Dry vermouth adds a nice element to a martini, but by itself, I don't really care for it.

So, having established that you can get a martini with gin, vodka or (unfortunately) neither, what else does the term "martini" encompass? There are the basic variations: dirty (includes olive brine), dry (very little vermouth), Gibson (garnished with a pickled pearl onion). There's The Vesper, which was invented by author Ian Fleming for his first James Bond book Casino Royale and contains both gin and vodka (but note, the Vesper is not what Bond usually orders, and if you recall what happened to Ms. Vesper Lind, then it's pretty obvious why he never drinks it). Then there's the flavored martinis, the most popular of which is probably the apple (sometimes called "appletini"), but I've seen pear, pomegranate, sake and melon. The term is even sometimes loosely used to apply to any type of higher-alcohol-content cocktail served up in a martini glass, like a cosmopolitan. That all sounds like fun, but when I think of a martini, I envision the classic gin version, and I want vermouth in it too.

Ordering a Martini

So what do you need to know when ordering a martini? First, decide if you want gin or vodka and say so, then specify if you want it dry, shaken or stirred (resist the temptation to be cool like Bond and get it stirred the way it should be), and finally whether you want it up (without ice) or on-the-rocks, but know that if you choose on-the-rocks, it won't come in the cool martini glass, so order it up.

The popular ratio of gin to vermouth in a martini has changed over time. At first it was 1:1, but steadily more gin and less vermouth became popular, with an off balance ratio as much as 100:1 (at which point, why even bother with the vermouth, just admit that you want a glass of gin). More recently, with the resurgence of classic cocktails, vermouth is returning to the martini. Jim Meehan's The PDT Cocktail Book suggests 3:1; Jeffrey Morgenthaler's The Bar Book favors 4:1. Because I want mine a little dryer, I'm going with 6:1. And nodding to the original late 19th Century martinis--a subject I hope to cover in more depth later--I'm also including a dash of orange bitters.

Dry Gin Martini

3 oz. Plymouth gin
1/2 oz. Dolin dry vermouth
1 dash of orange bitters
Lemon twist

Combine gin, vermouth and bitters in a cocktail mixing glass, Fill with ice and stir until very cold. Strain into a a chilled martini glass. Garnish with lemon twist.

Fajitas: From Steak to Everything

Although I haven't studied this enough to know if it's absolutely true, it seems to me that there's a greater tendency for food words of foreign origin to be misused, and thus more likely to evolve in meaning than words that have been in English a long time.

Take the French word "pommes" for example. Americans who do not speak French (me included) may be most familiar with this word from "pommes frites," which means fried potatoes. Because "frites" is obviously the fried part, they may logically assume "pommes" means potato, and thus apply it to other uses. However "Pommes" is actually the French word for "apples." "Pommes de terre" is the French term for potatoes, which literally means "apples of the earth." In the construction "pommes frites," the "de terre" has just been dropped, but without a working knowledge of French, you might not know that it needs to be put back if you want to talk about a potato and not an apple.

There are several Spanish food terms that I've noticed get appropriated for other uses. One is "queso," the Spanish word for "cheese," but which has come to mean "spicy cheese sauce" in American Tex-Mex restaurants, opening the door for potential confusion if one asks for "queso" expecting to get perhaps shredded cheese (which is, actually, what they asked for). Maybe in the not-too-distant future, "queso" could signify any type of spicy appetizer dip, including one without cheese? Vegans are already at work on this.

A Spanish term that has evolved further is "Fajita." Fajitas are one of those Tex-Mex dishes that isn't really Mexican. In The Tex-Mex Cookbook, Robb Walsh writes about the dish's Texas origins. It was originally a dish made by ranch hands from unwanted beef cuts. Restaurants began serving the dish in the 1960s, and the term "fajitas" was popularized in the 1970s.

Skirt steak, the original fajitas ingredient.

But the fajitas of the 1970s were different from those we know today. Originally, the term referred only to beef, specifically grilled skirt steak. "Faja" is the Spanish word for "skirt," and thus "fajita" means literally a "little skirt," referring to skirt steak. As a food then, the term referred specifically marinated and grilled skirt steak, generally sliced and served with tortillas and other garnishes.

In Monday's article on Dan Jurafsky's book, The Language of Food, I mentioned how our language around food evolves just as our food evolves. Fajitas are an excellent example of this.

Fajitas today may contain a variety of vegetables and meats.

Fajitas became a major food fad in the mid 1980s. Still popular today, they were everywhere at one point. I remember my introduction to the dish being a "fajita kit" you could buy at the grocery store with raw meat and vegetables to be grilled on the stove and stuffed in tortillas. Every Mexican restaurant had a version of fajitas. Even McDonald's, which obviously isn't a Mexican restaurant, began selling chicken and sometimes steak fajitas.

But wait...when did chicken enter the picture? Just as I wrote Tuesday about how "bruschetta" evolved from meaning garlic toast that might have a topping to mean garlic toast with topping, the term "fajita" evolved to mean not just the steak in the tortilla but the steak and the tortilla and garnishes, usually grilled onions and bell peppers, but also possibly salsa, cheese, beans and guacamole. Consequently, with the dish "fajita" established as meat + tortilla + garnishes, other meats could be substituted for the skirt steak and the dish was still called fajita. In fact, the meat could be dropped all together, the dish known as "vegetable fajitas." Today there are all sorts of variations on fajitas, including the original steak, but also chicken, shrimp, barbecue ribs, vegetable and combinations.

Grilled onions and bell peppers are a common fajita garnish. In some uses, they are even considered "fajitas."

There's an even newer use of the term I've observed, possibly a further evolution, entirely divorced from meat and tortillas.

In recent years, Chipotle Mexican Grill has emerged as America's leading fast-casual restaurant, sparking a revolution in the concept, quality and expectation of what fast food means. Although the menu is different now, when I first became a Chipotle customer in the early 2000s, the menu included "burritos" and "fajita burritos," the former included beans, while the latter came with grilled onions and bell peppers. Eventually, Chipotle dropped the "fajita burrito" from the menu, but kept the vegetables, the idea being that you can order just a "burrito" and get it with beans or vegetables (or both). But guess what people starting calling the grilled onions and vegetables? Fajitas.

We go to Chipotle a lot, and I hear it all the time. A customer orders a bowl with rice, chicken, black beans and, oh, "could I have some fajitas too?" indicating the grilled vegetables. Is it possible this use will grow beyond Chipotle? Perhaps, especially given that's Chipotle's influence on our food has grown with the chain, which has 1,600 (and growing) locations, plus imitators and restaurants applying a similar concept to salad, pizza, Mediterranean, Indian and Southeast Asian cuisines.


Steak Fajitas
Marinade adapted from Marinated and Grilled or Broiled Flank Steak recipe by Mark Bittman, How to Cook Everything

Marinade:
2 tbsp. freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tbsp. soy sauce
1/2 tsp. minced garlic
1/2 tsp. sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 lb. skirt or flank steak
2 tbsp. olive oil
1 sweet onion, sliced
1 green bell pepper, seeded, cored and sliced
2 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. ground cumin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Homemade flour tortillas (see recipe below)
Fresh guacamole (see recipe below)
Fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped

1. Combine the marinade ingredients in a shallow bowl. Add the steak, turning to coat in the marinade. Marinate for about 30 minutes, up to 1 hour.

2. Heat olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and bell pepper. Season with oregano, cumin, salt and pepper, to taste. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until softened and browned in places, about 10 minutes.

3. Heat oven broiler. Place steak on a baking sheet or broiler pan and broil 4 to 5 minutes per side, turning once (alternatively, if you have a grill, grill the steak over hot coals). Set aside to cool a couple minutes, then slice against the grain into strips. Serve steak and vegetables with homemade flour tortillas, fresh guacamole and a sprinkle of cilantro.

Homemade Flour Tortillas
Adapted from a recipe by How to Baker

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
3-5 tbsp. vegetable shortening
1 1/4 cups warm water

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, salt and baking powder. Add the vegetable shortening and use a pastry blender or your fingers to combine. Add the water, a little bit at a time, mixing in each addition to form the dough until it is soft and no longer sticky. Transfer dough to a lightly floured surface and knead for 2-3 minutes. Add additional flour if necessary to keep dough from being sticky. Cover the dough with a damp kitchen towel and allow to rest for 10 minutes.

2. Break off pieces of dough and roll into golf ball-size pieces. Cover with a wet towel and let the dough rest for another 10 minutes.

3. Heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Working with one piece of dough at a time, dust the dough with flour and gently press it into a small disc. Flatten the dough in a tortilla press, then

4. Heat griddle pan over medium heat. Working with one piece of dough at a time, dust the dough with flour and gently press it into a small disc, then flatten in a tortilla press. Cook the tortilla on each side for about 10 to 20 seconds. Transfer to a plate and cover with paper towels to keep warm. You should be able to cook them in batches of four.

Fresh guacamole

2 ripe hass avocados

Juice from 1 lime

2 tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro

Kosher salt, to taste

Pinch of chipotle chili powder

2 tbsp. minced sweet onion

Combine avocado and lime juice in a medium bowl. Mash with a fork or pastry blender until creamy but still a bit chunky. Add the cilantro, salt, chili powder and onion and stir to combine.

The Feed: October 1, 2014

Sugar does more than just sweeten these Peanut Butter, Oatmeal and Chocolate Chip Cookies, as discussed in the Eater article below.

The Feed is my weekly round up of interesting food-related stories from newspapers, magazines, blogs and websites.

Washington Post: “Unearthed: Are Patents the Problem?” by Tamar Haspel.
Whenever I see the “Tamar Haspel” byline in the Post’s Food section, I know I’m in for a good read. She keeps up her streak with this insightful—and potentially inciteful, given the topic—story about the role of patents in agriculture. Should companies be able to patent living organisms? It’s been a topic of controversy ever since the Supreme Court weighed in to allow it in 1980. I appreciate the commenter who raised an issue I’ve read about, which his farmers subject to lawsuits when neighbors’ GMO seeds blow into their farms, as well as Haspel’s response in the comments.

Washington Post: “Bay Leaf: Should It Stay or Should It Go?” by Bonnie S. Benwick.
This pretty much sums up my thoughts about bay leaf: “Others say, sure, they toss a bay leaf in when a recipe calls for it, but they can’t tell you why.” You’ll find it in a handful of recipes on my site, but it’s not one I turn to much. But as noted in this article, it can provide a nice “foundation” flavor. Something I should consider more.

New York Times: “New Michelin Guide Has New York Star-Studded,” by Florence Fabricant.
The Michelin Guide, perhaps the most esteemed judge of high-caliber restaurants, announced new star ratings for New York restaurants, adding quite a few to the list. Of interest is that the city’s group of three-star restaurants, the guide’s highest ranking, shrank from seven to six with the removal of one of the stars from Daniel, the restaurant from chef Daniel Boulud who recently opened DBGB in Washington, D.C.—and got a mixed bag First Bite review from Tom Sietsema, although their Baked Alaska looks to-die-for good.

New York Times: “A Salad Dressing to Rule Them All,” by Julia Moskin.
Because every home cook should know how to make a basic vinaigrette, I loved how Moskin breaks down this simple classic that really should replace any store-bought bottle dressings

Eater: “Joanne Chang Brings the Sweet Science of Sugar to Harvard.”
Turns out sugar does more than make your dessert sweet, a lot more. As part of Harvard’s Science and Cooking lecture series, pastry chef Joanne Chang regaled the audience with anecdotes and demonstration examples of all the wondrous things sugar does to create body, texture, balance and browning in our favorite treats.

Washingtonian: “These Are the Best 25 Food Trucks in Washington,” by Todd Kliman, Ann Limpert, Anna Spiegel, Nelson Billington.
Still haven’t tried lunch from one of D.C.’s food trucks? You’re missing out, as these mobile purveyors of $10 freshly prepared American and ethnic cuisines have really captured the District’s lunch crowd. Washingtonian rounds up a list of their favorites, which include Jose Andres’ sandwich truck, Pepe; the mouth-watering BBQ Bus; and South Meets Asia, whose trio of meat tacos has satisfied my cravings on several occasions.

NPR: “A Bumpy Ride: Airplane Food Through The Decades,” by April Fulton.
It may be hard to imagine, but there was a time when airlines actually served good food, even to their coach passengers. The only thing I’ve eaten on an airplane in recent years that I liked was the Bahn Mi Alaska Airlines was serving earlier this year. Good tidbit if you travel often: check out Fly and Dine, a food blog dedicated to eating while traveling.

NPR: “'Human Flesh' Burger Is A Treat To Tempt The Walking Dead,” by Alison Bruzek.
Warning: if you’re at all squeamish, you won’t want to read this one. In honor of the upcoming fifth season of AMC’s The Walking Dead, a British chef has made a hamburger designed to taste like…here it is…human flesh. Why first thought was, “OMG how does he know?!” He did research, not the first-hand kind thankfully, but read documentation on what humans, or rather we, taste like (such as the account of the people the movie Alive was based on).

Wall Street Journal: “The Right Ice for Your Cocktail,” by Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan.
For those who think being picky about your cocktail ice is taking things a step too far, Tan’s article nicely explains why different types of ice (big cubes, little cubes, crushed, shaved, etc.) behave differently in your drink.

Mother Jones: “The Creepy Language Tricks Taco Bell Uses to Fool People Into Eating There,” by Kiera Butler.
Lastly, since it’s Food and Language Week on my blog, here’s a great article using the analysis of Dan Jurafsky, author of the book The Language of Food that I discussed Monday, to examine what the wording of the menus at Taco Bell and its upscale spinoff U.S. Taco Co. tell us about the implicit messages being conveyed.