|Margarita and guacamole lovers rejoice: the lime shortage appears to be at an end as recounted in NPR's story below.|
The Feed is my weekly round up of interesting food-related stories from newspapers, magazines, blogs and websites.
Washington Post: “Smoke Signals: Smoke: Why We Love It, for Cooking and Eating,” by Jim Shahin.
The Washington Post Food section’s annual summer grilling issue is today. Shahin’s centerpiece story seeks to explain the allure of smoked food, which, some reason is evolutionary—we’re wired to love it. Just reading his opening description of the short ribs he was smoking made me salivate (and I booked reservations for Saturday night at a local restaurant known for its grilled food).
Washington Post: “Smoke in Cocktails: Complicated, but Worth It,” by M. Carrie Allan.
Allan puts a cocktail spin on the Post’s grilling issue by talking smoky cocktails. She confers with J.P. Caceres and chef Victor Albisu of Del Campo, who really know their stuff when it comes to smoke, including the smoky lemonade they serve that I (and Allan too apparently) love. But then she smartly offers a good home mixology alternative: smoky ingredients like mezcal and Islay Scotch. The Maguey and Mango cocktail, which features both, sounds quite tasty.
New York Times: “More Than a Cherry on Top,” by Florence Fabricant.
Fabricant puts the spotlight on maraschino liqueur, the old-school liqueur made from marasca cherries that’s a staple in a lot of classic drinks (the Last Word, for example). I didn’t realize there were brands besides Luxardo available.
Lucky Peach: “All You Can Eatonomics,” by Bourree Lam.
All-You-Can- Eat (AYCE as they say) buffets were how my smart grandmother fed my picky-eating child self. I remember the cinnamon rolls, macaroni & cheese, soft-serve ice cream and fried chicken breading (yes, only the breading). Lam profiles how such buffets turn a profit, examining the simple country variety to the upscale Vegas buffets. Also worth checking out is Naomi Harris’s article on suburban swingers clubs and their AYCE buffets—her article gives a new meaning to strip mall.
NPR: “With Cartels On The Run, Mexican Lime Farmers Keep More Of The Green,” by Carrie Kahn.
Good news! The price of limes is finally coming down, as supply is returning to normal as other Mexican crops besides those hit with bad weather are bearing their fruit. As an added bonus, the Mexican drug cartels reportedly squeezing the farmers and keeping prices high are on the run as well.
Get in My Mouf: “Sophisticated Chicken Wings,” by Evan Shaw.
Chicken wings aren’t something I give much thought too, but Shaw has, in this witty and engaging piece for his blog, Get in My Mouf, that argues for elevating wings above appetizer/sports-watching fare into something more sophisticated (but still eaten with your hands, of course). The photos, courtesy of his wife, are stunning too. Always love finding another great D.C.-area food blog.
Wall Street Journal: “The BLT Variations,” by Matthew Kronsberg.
Playing on tangy tomatoes, smoky-salty bacon and vegetal lettuce, Kronsberg offers various riffs on the classic B.L.T. sandwich, such as the APE (arugula, pepper and eggplant).
Imbibe: “Ginger Spice,” by Tracy Howard.
I recently left a supermarket empty-handed when I wanted ginger beer. Perhaps I should follow Howard’s lead and make my own. It doesn’t sound that hard. You don’t need any fancy soda-making equipment, since the yeast fermentation is what makes it bubble, no carbonation. One way or another I need to get some soon to try the Kentucky Buck, one of the Imbibe’s 10 “new classic” cocktails.
New York Post: “How Restaurant Culture Changed the Way We Eat,” by Cindy R. Lobel.
Lobel offers a compact history of restaurant culture in New York from the sixpenny eating houses of the mid 1800s to the cronut craze of today.