The Feed: September 4, 2013

The Feed is my weekly round up of interesting food-related stories from newspapers, magazines, blogs and websites.

Washington Post: “Wine: How do you unlock its flavors in your glass?,” by Dave McIntyre.
For the uninitiated, wine-tasting may seem like either an impossible skill or a bunch of hooey. Even for the initiated, it’s got a certain mystique. I still struggle to describe wines I like. There are certain types of cabernet I really love, for example, but darned if I find it basically impossible to tell people why. I just know when I get one. This week’s Post wine column offers an in-depth explanation of wine-tasting: how to use not just taste but other senses as well to identify a wine’s general age, body and flavor. McIntyre’s wine columns have always been an engaging read, but this year, with his dedication to more thoroughly explaining winemaking and its appreciation, his writing has been particularly enlightening.

NPR: “Restaurant Critic Finds Meaning At The Olive Garden In 'Grand Forks',” by NPR Staff.
Remember Marilyn Hagerty? In case you forgot, she’s the small-town restaurant critic from Grand Forks, North Dakota whose review last year of the local Olive Garden gained her national fame, as well as big-time industry friends like Anthony Bourdain. A collection of her reviews have been published as the aptly titled Grand Forks: A History of American Dining in 128 Reviews. Bourdain contributes a foreword.

NPR: “Don't Panic! Your Questions On (Not) Washing Raw Chickens,” by Maria Godoy.
Last week, The Feed included an NPR story warning home cooks not to rinse their chicken before cooking it. Apparently, it caused a firestorm of comments, so its writer, Godoy, did a follow-up Q&A with a food safety expert this week, further explaining the rationale behind the admonition (which stands, by the way).

Eater: “Cocktail U: Watch Dave Arnold Make a Debbie (Gibson),” by Amanda Kludt.
As part of Eater’s Cocktail University, Booker & Dax bartender Dave Arnold concocts a version of the Gibson martini he names for one of my favorite late ‘80s pop stars, Miss Debbie Gibson. He makes it with what must be a rather intensely flavored onion liquor, rather than the traditional onion garnish. Brilliant idea!

New York Times: “Reporter’s Notebook: I’ll Have What You’re Having,” by Jeff Gordinier.
The sharing thing seems so ubiquitous now that I doubt it will go away anytime soon. Although popularized by the tapas movement, Gordinier writes about another sharing phenomenon: the entrée for two. These tend to be well-proportioned and are thus easier to share than, say, a plate of three shrimp to divide among four people. I’ve been lucky to eat two of the entrees he writes about: the (good but overrated) roast chicken for two at The NoMad and the (absolutely divine) pork chop for two with stuffing at Ma Peche.

The Girl in the Little Red Kitchen: “Apricot Hand Pies,” by Susan Palmer.
Palmer pitched these as the perfect Labor Day weekend barbecue treat, but I bet they would be great at any fall celebration. Even making them might be worth celebrating: they sound delicious and fun. “Hand pies” are just pies but really small (so they fit in your hand). She made her with apricots, but I think I see some apple hand pies in my future.

Wall Street Journal: “How Snacking Became Respectable,” by Abigail Carroll.
A history of snacking in America shows the tradition of pleasurable between-meal eating has come a long way. I love that the original snack was the peanut, our household’s favorite just-got-home-from-work snack.

Restaurant: Table (Washington D.C.)

[Update: Table has closed.]

To say a lot of new restaurants have opened recently in D.C. is an understatement. The city has seen an explosion of new dining options in the past 12 months, particularly along corridors like 14th Street NW and H Street NE. The Shaw neighborhood is another such place, where Table is perhaps one of the buzziest openings of all. Bon Appétit nominated it as one of America's 50 best new restaurants this year (along with Daikaya, the other D.C. spot on the list) and the Washington Post awarded it 2.5 stars.

Burrata with zucchini anchovy terrine

Like a lot of restaurants these days, Table places its emphasis on serving quality, seasonal ingredients. Aspects of the restaurant may seem "high concept," like its menus. Initially, it was reported that Table wouldn't have a printed menu, but would project it on the wall, a cost-saving and efficiency measure to make updating the constantly changing menu easier. That was apparently scrapped in favor of another unusual menu: hand-written.

If that sounds a bit complicated, the food itself is not. Some dishes may lean a little French or Italian, but they all speak the same language of seasonal and simple. Those expecting an extra flourish may be disappointed in the lack of obvious "wow" factors, but the food that came out of the nearby kitchen excelled at highlighting the flavors of the key ingredients.

Tomato-watermelon salad

We started the evening with the burrata mozzarella and tomato dish. The burrata, a trendy cheese these days, was typically creamy and had a nice tang. It came served with a wafer-thin slice of toast and grilled zucchini and anchovy terrine. If you're not an anchovy fan, be warned: the terrine had thick slices of the meaty cured fish, which I enjoyed, but Chris found too fishy.

This time of year, good-quality tomatoes need little else to supplement their good flavor. So the tomato dish, with its accompanying cubes of watermelon and sprinkle of herbs, was appropriately simple. The slight crunch of sea salt and a sprinkle of herbs the only accoutrement to the ripe tomatoes and refreshing melon cubes.

Grilled Arctic char with summer squash

Our entrees were similarly simple: a protein accompanied by side vegetables. No special extras, but none were really needed. The Arctic char was perfectly cooked. The skin was crispy the flesh was tender, moist and cooked through.

Although Guinea hen was on the menu, our server explained that it was out--no doubt a not unusual issue at a restaurant striving to serve only the freshest available ingredients. In fact, there was a somewhat lengthy discussion of menu substitutions at the beginning of the night. Chris opted for a non-menu item: the crispy skin roasted chicken, a juicy (probably brined) chicken breast and wing served with braised mixed vegetables.

Roasted chicken with vegetables

With either entree, I wouldn't discount the vegetable sides. They were not afterthoughts, but very good on their own, especially the summer squash with my fish and the braised celery with the chicken. This is a kitchen that obviously loves its vegetables as much as its proteins.

The flan dessert was similarly good and had a perfect texture that balanced nicely with the poached peaches and madeline. Although billed as "ginger" flan, It tasted to me more of vanilla than ginger, apart from the fried ginger garnish. The peach madeline that accompanied was a nice touch.

Ginger flan with peaches

So let's talk about that kitchen. It's in the dining room. Not an opening into the kitchen, but literally in the same room. Thus diners can watch Chef de Cuisine Patrick Robinson and his cooks as they work (Chef Frederik de Pue was not on hand, perhaps he was at his other restaurant Azur, which opened in Penn Quarter shortly after Table's opening). As an avid home cook, I also liked seeing all their kitchen equipment on display on large open plywood shelves against the far wall.

In addition to the kitchen, the minimalist space has other appealing elements, including a glass-paned garage door that hints at the space's former life. Looking out those windows and into the recently gentrified surroundings, I wondered what used to exist at 903 N Street NW. Not the recent previous owner, a late '00s cocktail bar called The Space, but "back in the day."

One area I thought the restaurant could use some work it was with the service. There were no problems--people were polite and our food arrived as expected--but I felt like there was a lack of engagement. In particular, after receiving our food, no one came back to check on us. Although there were no problems, this is an important step to make sure diners are satisfied that everything is in order and nothing else is desired. It's also a nice opportunity to learn more about the food, if you're so inclined. Just the previous day I'd eaten lunch in a restaurant where the server's return visit to check on me led to a great discussion about how the restaurant prepared the chicken I was eating. I would have welcomed the opportunity for similar interaction at Table. Given the closeness of the diners and staff, it was a bit surprising to also have this feeling of distance.

Table is a nice addition to the rapidly changing space around the D.C. Convention Center. It's nice to see independent restaurants filling a region that could have easily been dominated by boring chains. Despite it being an area likely to draw a lot of travelers, it's nice to see locals are also being catered to. Perhaps travelers would be delighted by it too.

Table, 903 N Street NW (9th and N), Washington, D.C. (Shaw, near Convention Center Metro). (202) 588-5200. Reservations: Open Table.

Sweet Corn and Carrot Soup

Happy Labor Day! Is it feeling like fall is approaching yet? Not really around D.C., where it's nice and muggy lately. Still, I tell myself cooler weather is just around the corner.

This is a great recipe for this time of year because it makes use of seasonal vegetables and can be served warm or cold, depending on your mood and the ambient temperature. As a pureed soup, it has a pretty smooth texture, but to add a little textural interest I reserved some raw corn kernels to toss in at the end.

Sweet Corn and Carrot Soup

2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 large (or 4 small) shallots, minced
5-6 carrots, peeled and diced
3-4 garlic cloves, minced
Seasoned salt (or plain salt), to taste
5 ears of corn, kernels cut off and cobs reserved
6 cups water
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Pinch of cayenne pepper (or more to taste)
1/4 cup heavy cream
Smoked paprika, to taste
Snipped fresh chives

1. Heat olive oil in a dutch oven over medium heat. Add shallots and carrots and sauté until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Season with salt, then add garlic and all but 1 cup of the corn kernels, sautéing another 5 minutes. Add water, reserved corn cobs and cayenne pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 45 minutes.

2. Remove corn cobs and discard. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until smooth (alternatively, transfer in batches to a food processor and puree). Stir in the reserved uncooked corn kernels and heavy cream. Serve in shallow bowls topped with a sprinkle of smoked paprika and chives.

Cocktail: Summer to Fall

The hardest part of coming up with this cocktail was naming it. It's inspired by PDT's Betula, substituting summery Italian Aperol for the Betula's rum. Geographically it's all over the place. The core ingredient is whiskey, specifically Corsair's Triple Smoke American Single Malt Whiskey. It has a distinctive smoky aftertaste. The sweetener is maple syrup, heralding from New England.

My main idea was to do something that signifies the end of summer, with the Aperol and lemon looking back to cold drinks on a warm evening, and the whiskey and maple syrup looking ahead to the coming cold months. If all that backstory makes me sound like a blubbering Project Runway contestant trying to explain a haphazard design to the judges, fear not. This isn't a haphazard drink. It's rather good, I promise!

Summer to Fall

1 oz. smoked whiskey (Corsair Triple Smoke American Single Malt Whiskey)
1 oz. Aperol
1/2 oz. maple syrup
1/2 oz. fresh lemon juice
Lemon twist (optional garnish)

Combine liquid ingredients in a shaker with ice. Shake well until cold and strain into lowball with ice. Serve with lemon twist.

Smoky Mac & Cheese

Along with the Collard Greens with Bacon, this Smoky Mac & Cheese was the other side I served with Smoke-Brined Oven BBQ Chicken. This is the just the Modernist Mac & Cheese but made with different cheeses: a combination of smoked gouda an smoked mozzarella. Credit for the cheese combination goes to Washington Post Food Editor Joe Yonan, who suggested the combination to me during a recent Free Range on Food chat.

Since the Modernist Cuisine recipe for Mac & Cheese has no other ingredients--apart from the sodium citrate and water--it has an intense cheese flavor. And the sodium citrate gives it an amazingly pure texture. I've made a Smoky Mac & Cheese before with chicken, but this version is both simpler and more intense. The only catch is finding sodium citrate, but Amazon makes that a snap. Of course, you could always go the traditional route with a bechamel-based cheese sauce.

To finely grate the cheeses, I cut them into 1/2-inch cubes and them pulse the cubes a few times in a food processor until the cheese has a sandy texture.

Smoky Mac & Cheese
Adapted from Mac and Cheese, Modernist Cuisine at Home by Nathan Myhrvold and Maxime Bilet

1 lb. dried elbow macaroni pasta
2 1/4 cups water
12 oz. smoked gouda cheese, finely grated
8 oz. smoked mozzarella cheese, fine grated
1 heaping tbsp. sodium citrate

1. Cook macaroni in salted water according to package directions for al dente. Drain cooked pasta and set aside.

2. Add 2 1/4 cups water to a large (4 qt.) saucepan and heat over medium heat until simmering. Add sodium citrate and stir to dissolve. Add grated cheese to water one spoonful at a time. After each addition, blend with an immersion blender until the mixture is smooth. Continue in this manner until all the cheese has been added and melted in the sauce.

3. Pour the sauce over the cooked noodles and stir to combine.

The Feed: August 28, 2013

The Feed is my weekly round up of interesting food-related stories from newspapers, magazines, blogs and websites.


New York Times: “Building a Better Mass-Market Tomato," by Kenneth Chang.
It’s pretty clear at this point that supermarket tomatoes are basically worthless: tasteless, mushy, ghostly looking replicas of real tomatoes you can grow yourself or buy locally grown from farmers markets. The tomatoes at the store have been bred to look pretty and ship well, to the determent of taste and nutrients. One University of Florida researcher is trying to change that though and bring back flavor to the grocery store tomato. A noble enterprise for sure--I hope he’s successful.

Bon Appétit: “Why Sherry Is Suddenly Cool,” by David Lynch.
For a long time, people had sherry in their fridge for those times when Chinese stir-fry recipes called for a splash. No one was actually drinking the stuff. Times have changed though, and drinking sherry is back in vogue. This article includes a handy guide to some common styles and even a delicious-sounding sherry cocktail with Aperol, honey and citrus courtesy of Portland’s Ava Gene’s restaurant.

The Roaming Gastronome: “Apple Onion Chutney and Canning for the First Time,” by Jason Andros.
I’ve never tried canning anything for long-term storage. And although I’m convinced I’m not up to trying it (for lack of storage space), that won’t dissuade me from making a small batch of The Roaming Gastronome’s amazing-sounding Apple Onion Chutney. Sounds like such a great combo that would be good with lots of meats—particularly chicken or pork chops—or slathered on whole grain bread, perhaps with a spread of some soft brie. Mmm… For those who would like to try canning it, Andros includes links for how to do that successfully.

Huffington Post: “Seeking Longevity? Eat Real Food,” by Andy Bellatti.
Bellatti, a dietician and author of Small Bites, points out how stories espousing the longevity of certain pockets of native cultures often peg their health on the consumption of a particular food, while ignoring the (possibly) more likely culprit: the absence of industrialized food products. He also offers five rather sensible suggestions for healthy eating.

The Guardian: “The brightest bulb: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's garlic recipes,” by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall.
Who doesn’t love garlic? I certainly do—we go through a head every week or two. Fearnley-Whittingstall shares some great tips for cooking with garlic: when it’s better crushed vs. sliced, for example. He shares some great garlic recipes too.

Hunger Angler Gardener Cook: “Poached Salmon with Dill-Horseradish Cream,” by Hank Shaw.
Shaw’s salmon dishes always look really good and this is no exception: a butter-poached salmon fillet with a simple dill cream sauce spiked with horseradish. Sounds delicious!

Annarasa - Essence of Food: “Lemon Quinoa / Lemony Quinoa Pilaf,” by Apu.
Inspired by south Indian-style lemon rice, Annarasa has concocted this delicious and fairly simple sounding recipe with quinoa. The only challenge might be acquiring some of the ingredients, but I bet you could make a few substitutions and still have a great dish. If you like vegetarian and vegan recipes, her site has quite a few great ones.

CNN: “Oreos high school experiment: Double and Mega Stuf filling doesn't add up,” by Michaela Perreira and Ed Payne.
A high school science class experiment revealed that “Double Stuf” Oreos don’t actually contain twice as much filling as the regular ones, but rather 1.86 times. I wasn’t surprised to find Double Stuf Oreos don’t have exactly twice the filling, but apparently Oreo was, who insisted the recipe does include double the filling. I think the class should next tackle exactly what’s in the Oreo “cream” filling (hint: it’s not a dairy product).

NPR: “Julia Child Was Wrong: Don't Wash Your Raw Chicken, Folks,” by Maria Godoy.
Think washing your chicken before cooking it is safe? Think again. According to Godoy’s story, the practice will do more to spread germs in your kitchen than it will to disinfect the chicken (which gets properly disinfected by cooking it at a high enough temperature). I love the “germ-vision” video, which shows a home cook rinsing her chicken and spreading germs all over her kitchen. Yikes!

Washington City Paper: “Against Rum Day. And National Watermelon Day. And National Crème Brûlée Day. And National Filet Mignon Day,” by Jessica Sidman.
These days every day is a holiday if you count food holidays: the practice of celebrating various foods each year on a set day. They can be a fun marketing gimmick, and I often use them as an excuse to showcase my old recipes on Twitter. They’ve become quite popular lately. As they say, there’s even an app for that. But, when something like a cherry turnover gets its own food holiday—today in fact—has the practice gone too far? Sidman thinks so: on the day her story ran, she declared it “International Food Days Are A Sham Day.”

CNN Eatocracy: “Sommelier turns water into cash,” by Dantel Hood.
A water sommelier? It may sound like The Emperor’s New Clothes, but It exists.

Collard Greens with Bacon

I made these Collard Greens with Bacon as one of the sides with my Smoke-Brined Oven BBQ Chicken I posted yesterday. I adapted this recipe from Martha Stewart. It's a simple and tasty side.

If you use a good smoked bacon like I did, it will also have a nice smoky flavor. Whenever I want intensely flavored smoked bacon, I also head to Harvey's Market, the butcher shop in D.C.'s Union Market. Their thick hickory-smoked bacon is simply amazing.

Collard Greens with Bacon

Adapted from a recipe by Martha Stewart

Makes about 3-4 servings

3 bacon slices (about 1/4 lb.), cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips

1/2 red onion, sliced

2 bunches collard greens, stems removed, washed and cut into 2-inch pieces

2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar

1 cup water

1. Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add bacon and cook, stirring frequently until browned and crispy, remove from pan with a slotted spoon and drain off all but about a tablespoon of bacon fat. 

2. Add onion to pan and sauté until softened, about 5-6 minutes. Add the greens and cook, stirring frequently, until wilted and reduced in volume. Return cooked bacon to pan and add vinegar, stirring as it evaporates. Add water, cover pan and reduce heat to low. Simmer, covered, for about 12-14 minutes until the greens are tender.